Author Topic: 1/3rd scale V10  (Read 293373 times)

Offline keith5700

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Re: 1/3rd scale V10
« Reply #135 on: April 14, 2015, 01:17:33 PM »
Then I got bored with that and had a go at the flywheel.
I cut the centre out of a purchased gear, and heat shrunk it on the flywheel.
Then cut the scallops for the crank sensor. 24 minus 1 worked fine on the V8 so I went for 30 - 1 on this one.
Finally I got the key slots cut, and drilled the flywheel for a future clutch plate.
I quite fancy a double or triple plate clutch setup. Totally useless, but would look great!











Random pic of the front, minus cover plate.......



Then I thought I'd better get back to the plugs, but couldn't seem to drill a 1.2mm hole concentric through the Macor. This bit is about 1/2" long, but the hole is already way off. This is with brand new Dormer drills.
I'm going to try a carbide drill from both ends, and if that doesn't work I'll try and spin the drill and the part as well.





Offline ZAK.

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Re: 1/3rd scale V10
« Reply #136 on: April 14, 2015, 03:11:15 PM »
That is first class engineering,  :) I would like to hear that running on completion.

Offline gbritnell

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Re: 1/3rd scale V10
« Reply #137 on: April 14, 2015, 03:12:59 PM »
Hi Keith,
I'm not familiar with Macor but have used Teflon and Corian with no trouble. Maybe it's just the flutes loading up with the material and pushing the drill sideways.
gbritnell
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Offline fumopuc

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Re: 1/3rd scale V10
« Reply #138 on: April 14, 2015, 08:53:39 PM »
Finally I got the key slots cut, and drilled the flywheel for a future clutch plate.
I quite fancy a double or triple plate clutch setup. Totally useless, but would look great!

Hi Keith, this engine needs a down scaled copy of a seven  disc AP carbon clutch.
It should be possible to make it with water jet cutting from some thin cheap carbon plates.
Your engine and work is brilliant.
Kind Regards
Achim

Offline Allen Smithee

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Re: 1/3rd scale V10
« Reply #139 on: April 14, 2015, 09:12:46 PM »
Those clutch plates are made from carbon-ceramic rather than CFRP aren't they?

But of course it also cries out for a kevlar-cased F1 gearbox complete with KERS...

Awesome, Keith. Just awesome (as ever).

AS
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Online sco

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Re: 1/3rd scale V10
« Reply #140 on: April 14, 2015, 09:19:04 PM »
No the clutch plates are carbon similar to the brake discs and there is no kevlar used in the casing either.

This model is exquisite in every detail though :-)

Simon.
Ars longa, vita brevis.

Offline keith5700

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Re: 1/3rd scale V10
« Reply #141 on: April 14, 2015, 10:15:02 PM »
Hello George, I can't figure out why the drill is wandering. I've never really thought about it before, but you'd think if say a drill was ground sharp on one flute and deliberately blunt on the other, then it would cut oversize, but still stay concentric, as the part is rotating the error evenly around all the time.
Trouble is the Macor is a bit too valuable to do much testing, so I'll try the carbide drills next.

I've just had a look at multi plate clutches, again I've never took much notice up till now. It looks do-able although the splines look a bit tricky. Maybe the best thing would be to find something already splined, like a car steering knuckle joint, and base the design around that.
There's some nice gold anodising on those AP clutches though, so it's going to have to be done.

Offline keith5700

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Re: 1/3rd scale V10
« Reply #142 on: April 26, 2015, 02:07:52 PM »
I've been doing something else which isn't really required, for the past couple of weeks.
Since early on when I decided to include the supercharger, I've wanted to make the rotors helical, rather than straight cut.
I'm a bit out of sequence on a logical build program, but I decided to have a go at them. Basically I had to get the dividing head to turn with the x axis of the Miller, so I made a bevel box and chain and gear parts to make this happen. It was a bit awkward at times as the dividing head still has to work as it should so I can index between the 3 lobes.
The gears are there So I can reverse the helix for one of the rotors.
I did a quick test cut and it seems to work ok. Just need some ally now to make the rotors from. Be a few days now as I'm all out of materials pretty much.








« Last Edit: April 26, 2015, 03:26:50 PM by keith5700 »

Offline DavidF

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Re: 1/3rd scale V10
« Reply #143 on: April 26, 2015, 02:29:00 PM »
Cool set up!  Cant wait to see the finished rotors  :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:

Offline Greg Haisley

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Re: 1/3rd scale V10
« Reply #144 on: April 27, 2015, 04:22:06 PM »
I have done this on a Cincinnati horizontal mill, but never on a bridgeport mill. Very cleaver!

Twisted rotors are more optimal than straight IMHO. Single point of contact like the GM style roots blower.
I'm guessing you will use the shim method for setting the clearance of the rotors via the angled helical gears.

Again very cleaver ~ keep up the great work.
Cheers,
Greg Haisley

Online Roger B

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Re: 1/3rd scale V10
« Reply #145 on: April 27, 2015, 07:07:24 PM »
That's a very neat setup for spiral milling  :praise2:  :praise2: Still following with interest  :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
Best regards

Roger

Offline keith5700

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Re: 1/3rd scale V10
« Reply #146 on: May 03, 2015, 01:31:59 PM »
Well I managed the first one. Needs a lot of concentration to not lose where you are. Was listening to the football at the time and kept going wrong.





Offline fumopuc

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Re: 1/3rd scale V10
« Reply #147 on: May 03, 2015, 02:51:30 PM »
WOW.
Kind Regards
Achim

Online Roger B

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Re: 1/3rd scale V10
« Reply #148 on: May 03, 2015, 07:34:58 PM »
That's some serious machining  :praise2:  :praise2:
Best regards

Roger

Offline billmac

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Re: 1/3rd scale V10
« Reply #149 on: May 05, 2015, 12:07:49 PM »
Keith -

I think you have raised the bar out of site with that setup.

I am still trying to work out how you have achieved the correct form of the rotor teeth. I am guessing that you spiral milled out the centre, then adjusted the depth of cut and Y position in steps, each time spiral milling the length of the rotor. Eventually, the ball nose cutter would cut the complete shape of one side of the tooth space. You then repeat that for the other side of the tooth space. You then index around 120 degrees and repeat the whole process. I am guessing that you needed about 12 cuts for each side of the tooth space, 24 for a complete space, a total of 72 passes. Is that about right?

If so it is one of those jobs that you have to complete in one sitting using a chart, absolute total concentration and no interruptions. I am in awe of what you have achieved. Thanks for showing us.


 

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