Author Topic: 1/3rd scale V10  (Read 179971 times)

Offline keith5700

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Re: 1/3rd scale V10
« Reply #240 on: June 17, 2016, 01:10:41 PM »
Dean, basic anodising for our hobby use is easy.
You've already got the tank, so you just need 3 or 4 plastic tanks for cleaning water, and any dyes, and a car battery, and maybe some extraction.
get your part to be coated, get the finish you require, polished, peened, scotchbrited, etc. and then clean and degrease it with washing up liquid and paintbrush under the tap.
Don't touch it with fingers after that.
Hang it, or attach it to your ally wire, or rod, (i use knitting needles, threaded into the part) and dip it into some clean de-ionised or distilled water. Then hang it in your tank and connect the car battery.
Just let the part draw any current it wants, don't bother with regulators etc. I did this for a year but you don't need to bother.
If the part takes much more than 1 amp then you may need some extraction to take the gas away. its not very nice stuff whatever it is.

I use a aquarium air bubbler to move the acid around a bit, as bubbles can form on the surface if everything is still.
Take part out after 1 hour, rinse and then straight into the dye, before it dries.
Then out of the dye, rinse, and if colour is ok then pop it in a pan of boiling distilled water for a few minutes to seal the surface.

Once cooled then you're done.
Try and keep the acid around 20 c. you will need some sort of cooler rigging up if you are using large currents.
If you need a perfect colour match then try and anodise all the parts at the same time, as it's difficult to get identical conditions in the garage for successive runs.

So, distilled or de-ionised water at every step apart from the first degrease bit.  Piece of cake!

PM me if you want any specifics.

Roger, I managed to get some proper Macor, and have made 1 plug so far. Not tried it yet as engine is partially stripped at the moment. Not far off though. I may end up looking at cutting the power output from those coil over plug modules in the future. Maybe just reducing the voltage to the coil pack would do it, as long as it doesn't balls-up the Megasquirt?
I got some proper Macor from Precision Ceramics in UK. About half the price of RS.
I paid around 50 for a 300mm length of 10mm round, including post and all the other hidden charges!

Cheers.


Offline Art K

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Re: 1/3rd scale V10
« Reply #241 on: June 17, 2016, 05:59:27 PM »
Keith,
I just wanted to chime in on how phenomenal your engine build is, wow....
Art

Offline keith5700

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Re: 1/3rd scale V10
« Reply #242 on: June 21, 2016, 07:56:15 AM »
Thanks Art.
Here is the mould for the plug caps. there is a brass insert moulded into the cap, which will have an M2.5 grub screw to hold the plug wire.
The material is 2 part polyurethane, which is exactly the same stuff we use at work!
material is injected at the bottom and rises up through 2 top exits.












Online steamer

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Re: 1/3rd scale V10
« Reply #243 on: June 21, 2016, 10:50:15 AM »
That looks Awesome Keith!

Dave
"Mister M'Andrew, don't you think steam spoils romance at sea?"
Damned ijjit!

Offline Roger B

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Re: 1/3rd scale V10
« Reply #244 on: June 21, 2016, 11:10:08 AM »
Very nice  :praise2:  :praise2: Are you able to increase the tracking length on your spark plug, for example be making the end of the insulator convex? What is the present spark path length of the insulator in comparison to the plug gap?
Best regards

Roger

Offline gbritnell

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Re: 1/3rd scale V10
« Reply #245 on: June 21, 2016, 01:07:26 PM »
Keith,
If I didn't know better I would swear I was looking at the full sized engine. Masterful work!!
gbritnell
Talent unshared is talent wasted.

Offline fumopuc

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Re: 1/3rd scale V10
« Reply #246 on: June 21, 2016, 07:35:21 PM »
WOW.Awesome.
Kind Regards
Achim

Offline Mayhugh1

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Re: 1/3rd scale V10
« Reply #247 on: June 21, 2016, 10:20:24 PM »
Flawless parts, perfect fits and finishes, novel machining,  high tech ignition controls... There just aren't sufficient words. I agree with George...the engine looks full size in the photos except the fact there are no oil stains, casting flaws, or gasket sealer smudges. I need to get over to this forum more often. Your posts are gems. - Terry

Offline keith5700

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Re: 1/3rd scale V10
« Reply #248 on: June 22, 2016, 07:56:29 AM »
Thank you once again for nice comments.
Roger, here is crumpled up print of spark plug assembly. Looks like the next smallest gap after the actual plug gap is 1.3mm, although this is where the spark seems to be going a lot of the time, instead of across the tip gap. ???


Offline Roger B

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Re: 1/3rd scale V10
« Reply #249 on: June 22, 2016, 11:07:28 AM »
Hi Keith,

Based on other HV experience the tracking length needs to be at least 5 times the spark gap otherwise the spark will tend to track rather than go across the gap. Reducing the spark gap would help, you may be able to go down to 0.25mm. Radiusing the end of the insulator to increase the tracking  length would also be good if possible. I don't know how easy Macor is to machine.
Best regards

Roger

Offline keith5700

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Re: 1/3rd scale V10
« Reply #250 on: June 22, 2016, 01:10:20 PM »
Roger, the chamfered version A gives the longest tracking length, although all three are pretty much the same.
Macor is nice to machine, but the dust is a problem to contain.
Which would you do if you were making them, a,b or c?
Cheers.


Offline Roger B

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Re: 1/3rd scale V10
« Reply #251 on: June 22, 2016, 01:40:10 PM »
I would go for B, reducing the radius if possible to increase the length. A and C have potentially sharp transitions at the center electrode which will generally tend to promote arcing and tracking. Smooth curves are best for reducing the chance of arcing.

I have attached a picture of the HV connection on a 1.5MeV electron accelerator (my day job) as an example.
Best regards

Roger

Offline keith5700

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Re: 1/3rd scale V10
« Reply #252 on: August 23, 2016, 01:02:47 PM »
Progress quite slow at the moment, but some headway made.

I made some engine mounting brackets to bolt onto the block, and then some soft mounts, which fix to a steel cradle.
I wanted to open up the space at the back of the engine to make room for the next interesting bit I've always fancied having a go at, which is a triple plate clutch.

I realise it doesn't actually need 3 plates, but I wanted them anyway!

The clutch is almost complete now, apart from the friction 'pucks' which will be made from ptfe.

Seems completely wrong to use this as the clutch friction plate, but I use it at work for clutch packs and it works great, provided you have the room for a big enough diameter, and enough clamping force.
The clutch is operated by a cycle hydraulic brake lever.

It all works very smoothly. Just need to make the splined shaft so I can test the torque it will hold.















The design of the clutch is a bit unusual as I haven't got a bellhousing or gearbox to push against, so the arrangement is such that it pushes against itself, hence the 2 thrust bearings. Hopefully the drawing is decipherable to anyone interested.


Offline Rivergypsy

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Re: 1/3rd scale V10
« Reply #253 on: August 23, 2016, 01:13:59 PM »
WOW, I'm in lust!  :mischief:

Love the photo from your day job too - I used to work on those at the Cavendish Laboratory some years ago for electron microscopes. here's a couple of pics of a gun which went in the first STEM with aberration correction which the workshop built, and I sectioned for their museum.





Offline 777engman

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Re: 1/3rd scale V10
« Reply #254 on: September 28, 2016, 12:34:20 AM »
Hi Keith, just wondering if you are ok, haven't seen any progress reports lately. I have got the anodizing plant up and running and done 4 runs now, 3 came out really nice but 1 not so much, the sand blasted finished parts looked to anodize OK but didn't take up any dye? got any thoughts on why? you can see the results on my v12 build thread that I sent the link to you before.

cheers
Dean