Another UPT

[PeterE]

I read through that section carefully when I did my UPT.

I got the impression that GHT used the largest of the face plates, the one which have to use the gap in the bed. In that case it would work. Seem to remember that GHT mentioned that it was a close call space-wise as well.

/Peter

[ths]

I have the 9 inch Myford faceplate, which I used when I did mine. No troubles there

Hugh.

[Jo]

  That would account for it, mine is only a 7" one.

Jo

[Don1966]

Jo, if you look at my thread I did it on the mill. I had also purchased the Hemingway quick set faceplate to use, but I think it was faster to do it on the mill then the lathe.

Don

[PeterE]

I made my version from bar stock well before I had a larger lathe and a mill. I made the arms and the foot using a pillar drill and a 20 mm countersink bit 

/Peter

[Jasonb]

I think I would do it on the mill as Don says. You can do both bores without having to reposition the work so there is little risk of them being out of line. I suspect when GHT described the build 90% of people only had a lathe.

J

[steamer]

Hmmm...I'd still do the boring in batches.....Bore one end, fix a stub shaft to the table, mount the parts on the first bore and one at a time bore the second holes...on the mill or the lathe.

But that will depend on the equipment you have and how well it repeats....if you have CNC and .000050" scales....just do it.

Dave

[steamer]

Sounds Familiar!



Dave

[Jo]

I started this evening using my mechanical hacksaw to help cut a piece of 320mm long 25.4mm square steel in half for my pair of connecting rods. But it was a bit cold for that old hacksaw  and I got cheesed off having to help it on its way through. So I got side tracked and this caught my attention, I am allowed to do it as I need it for number 1 project. 

Marking out the arms required a means of mounting them vertically and square. I opted to clamp them to an angle plate:



Whilst I think about it can any one explain why you get left and right handed vernier height gauges:



Having squared everything up it it then a case of identify the measurements needed (in black) the measurements on the casting (blue) and from it find the appropriate position on the casting for the holes. Then measure the height of the casting and use that as your reference to measure down and mark the centres of each of the holes (in red):



Then off to the mill and mill/drill/ream for the clamp holes and take to width:



It took a while and I have only done the first part of the drilling arm.



Tomorrow I must be a good girl and square up the ends of that bit of 25.4mm sq before I am allowed to do anything else 

Jo

[steamer]

Looks great Jo!   Are you bore them GHT style?...or in the mill?

Dave

[Don1966]

Looking good Jo, and glad to see you started on them. It will be fun following after having completed mine. I bet it's the mill your going to use to bore the arms with.

Don

[steamer]

Looking good Jo, and glad to see you started on them. I will be fun following after having completed mine. I bet it the mill your going to use to bore the arms with.

Don

Considering the mill she has, I would be surprised either!

Dave

[ths]

High time as well.

Hugh.

[Pete49]

Another quickie from Jo.... worth watching? you betcha and more learning stuff for me
Pete

[Jo]

Another quickie from Jo....

  I have other distractions this year  I am not sure if my self control gets better or worse with each coming year but it is going to be fun  .

And no I still have not decided how I am going to bore the arms... I have how ever discovered I am short of my clamping nuts.. I thought I had made an extra one but now I realise that I only did the ones for the standard UPT + 1, The drill arm needs two and the VHD needs another 2 

So anyone any ideas on my right and left hand height gauges?

Jo