'WIDE A WAKE' a steam launch tale

[Ramon Wilson]

Hi guys - a quick one as I'm about to get to grips with an overhanging oak tree and have a friend coming for an inspection of progress on the engine this afternoon.

Thanks as always for your interest - I'll get back as soon as I can later today to explain and answer but in the meantime no use of O rings is intended 

See you later - Ramon

[10KPete]

 ...........no use of O rings is intended 

See you later - Ramon

Aahh! Can't wait to see what you have in store! 

Pete

[Johnb]

Good to see this on the go. Thanks Ramon

[Ramon Wilson]

Hi guys sorry for the delay but it's been a long day.

Derek once again I am pleased to have your input but I confess my thinking is not on the same lines. Though I've used them here and there over the years I would say I'm not an 'O' ring devotee. No specific reason, will happily fit them when required, but if not usually try to do without them.

It is as Jason surmises - in part - as the spigots on the two bolt flanges are just for location. There's approximately a 0.1mm gap when the flanges are up tight.

The 'O' ring grooves in the exhaust flanges however are, I'm afraid, just grooves put in with a 45 degree pointed tool.

I will fit these joints using a thin layer of silicone pipe sealant which will fill the voids to provide an extra barrier. I have used this kind of joint in the past with total success albeit running on 40 psi non superheated steam. That said Derek I do appreciate your experience and knowledge and value your input so please don't think I'm being dismissive. I'll have to see how they pan out.

I've worn myself out today but had some fun doing some physical work for a change - well sort of  Some may recall when I cut the ribs for the boat I caught my middle finger in the circular saw - well today I crushed the tip of the same finger between a fixed branch and a sawn off one swinging on a rope. Oh whoopee Dee  Right now it's beginning the 'night time throb' bit   

Thanks for all the comments guys - hope that puts your mind at rest Pete  and it's good to see you still keeping tabs on events Whiskey and you too John B

Back soon once I can get back onto it

Regards - Ramon

[derekwarner]

Thanks Ramon...I think I am on the same page as 10KPete as also with a lifetime in hydraulic fluid engineering ......

Sealing industrial hydraulic fluid systems commonly pulsating between 250 Bar to 500 Bar is a totally different challenge to sealing steam at ~~3 Bar.......having said this the same tube/flange work principals apply as to life size NB pipe/flange construction

Bolt the two flanges hard up together with at least 2 bolts on the diagonal ....complete the socket tube soldering work, strip, clean [I actually boil short tube spools after flange soldering] then ready for assembly ......an oil soaked paper gasket from 0.008" paper or a thin smear of Hylomer sealant, reassembly with the same care as full scale flanges & all will be well

All of the flanges I use for 1/8" & 5/32" OD tube are from Winfried Niggle in Germany & these have 4 ID x 1.5 section [6-035] Viton O-rings

Did you manage to save some of the oak timber for seasoning & aging? 

As always, your machining & construction leave me rather speechless...... Derek 

[Ramon Wilson]

Thanks Derek - all round  I have used oil soaked paper before on steam chest/cylinder covers and for gaskets on my I/C engines but not on pipe connections. I have just bought some Hylomar sealant too so will follow your advice

Just been sailing but the weather was abysmal so we all decided to pack up early.

10KPete  - my apologies - I overlooked your question on the cast effect. It was produced by using a couple of different carbide rotary burrs in a Proxon hand power tool. I just let the burr, running at about 6-8000 rpm bounce across the surface as opposed to trying to remove metal. I'll take a pic of what I used later for you.


Regards for now - Ramon

[crueby]

10KPete  - my apologies - I overlooked your question on the cast effect. It was produced by using a couple of different carbide rotary burrs in a Proxon hand power tool. I just let the burr, running at about 6-8000 rpm bounce across the surface as opposed to trying to remove metal. I'll take a pic of what I used later for you.

Neat trick, I'll have to give that a try - I have experimented with sandblasting, but that just gave a dull look. Thanks!

[10KPete]

10KPete  - my apologies - I overlooked your question on the cast effect. It was produced by using a couple of different carbide rotary burrs in a Proxon hand power tool. I just let the burr, running at about 6-8000 rpm bounce across the surface as opposed to trying to remove metal. I'll take a pic of what I used later for you.


Regards for now - Ramon

Ramon, no worries! I never would have guessed at that treatment. Clever!

I like the idea of the two little grooves facing each other with the molded-in-place seal. Sometimes a thin 'gasket' will leak
from a surface defect, but the little seal ring will put a stop to that. Should make a robust seal!

I love the work you're doing. Keep it coming!

Pete

[Ramon Wilson]

Pete, Chris - glad that's of use. It's quite easy to do and fairly quick on CI not quite so on steel. On 'brass' of course it's a doddle.

Just as a matter of interest you can get an even more defined effect by using an engraver


This was the eccentric strap from the Waller engine. The central steel part is just protection


As finished - the bright shine can be reduced by a thin layer of brown enamel paint well thinned to a water like consistency


As here on the Double Diagonal


The idea is not new nor mine. I was first told about it by an exhibitor at an ME Exhibition. A superb model engineer and very nice person indeed to converse with I think his name was Ron Jervis - he made some exceptional steam powered vehicles/carriages. I noticed this effect on a beam engine driven sugar mill he had made and asked him about it. I believe I read somewhere he lived to be a centenarian and was modelling almost to the end.

The garden is far to wet to do anything on tomorrow    aw dammit it's in the warm again I guess Life can be so difficult at times you know 

Regards - Ramon

[zeeprogrammer]

Neat idea! Thanks for posting that.

[Tennessee Whiskey]

Every illusionist has tricks of the trade  .. Great job Tug   

Cletus

[10KPete]

Outstanding technique! Thank you for bringing that to our attention. 

 
Pete

[crueby]

Just tried your texturing technique on some brass and steel scraps, using my proxxon rotary tool and a small ball end bur - looks fantastic! With a medium speed and a tapping motion, it gives a great random pattern. Also tried a little wash of thinned paint like you suggest, gives it a nice depth.

Thanks for the great tips!!   

[zeeprogrammer]

Just tried your texturing technique on some brass and steel scraps, using my proxxon rotary tool and a small ball end bur - looks fantastic! With a medium speed and a tapping motion, it gives a great random pattern. Also tried a little wash of thinned paint like you suggest, gives it a nice depth.

Thanks for the great tips!!   

Pics? Hey Dave! Aren't you asking too.?

[crueby]

Just tried your texturing technique on some brass and steel scraps, using my proxxon rotary tool and a small ball end bur - looks fantastic! With a medium speed and a tapping motion, it gives a great random pattern. Also tried a little wash of thinned paint like you suggest, gives it a nice depth.

Thanks for the great tips!!   

Pics? Hey Dave! Aren't you asking too.?

Too busy eating hot chocolate chip cookies...

Besides, I just did a small sample, nothing like his great looking parts!