Sixis 101 House Mill

[b.lindsey]

If it just arrived on Friday, you have made a lot of progress already Jo!!  A woman on a mission...looking great though   

Bill

[swilliams]

Looks good Jo, but I think you'll need to colour coordinate the curtains 

Steve

[Dave Otto]

Hi Jo

Wow I somehow missed post #9; sexy is looking.... well rather sexy!

I want see her surrounded by swarf and oil streaks on the wall .

Dave

[Jo]

I want see her surrounded by swarf and oil streaks on the wall .

  If there is any streaking around sexy I am not going to publish photographs of it .

Jo

[Jo]

Here you can find also a f1 manual, already on the net:
http://passion-usinages.forumgratuit.org/t1073-aciera-f1

 

My work has blocked access to that site so I am going to have to start enticing those mice at home to get a move on 

Jo

[Jo]

I probably should have spoken up earlier, since you are almost finished with the paint removal, but did you consider using a heat gun to soften the paint? 

Jerry

Other than the little problem that I don't own a heat gun, it was important to keep as much of the original paint work intact as possible, it adds to the authenticity of the machine, I could imagine a heat gun would have also damaged the original paint. .

The home mixed metallic green paint is a much closer match to the original than it looks in the photos it is just not hammer finished. Modern hammer finishes seem to be much coarser than the older stuff, so I opted for the smooth and let the underlying hammer finish show through  .
-----
Time to start planning the gadgets for Sexy 

Jo

[Florian Eberhard]

Hey Jo

The hammer finish look depends on how thick your layer of paint is and also if you dilute the paint. Diluted paint makes finer pattern, undiluted gives a coarser pattern. (and the more viscous the coarser the pattern. It therefore also depends on the temperature of the paint!)
Thats my experience with it.
You may watch out because some hammer finish paints need a special thinner (At least the one i know, the brand is "hammerite" )

Cheers Florian

[Jo]

Thanks Florian  I will keep that trick in mind.
---

The top slide had been in the wars, it looked like someone had got an angle grinder  to it to remove the original paint before putting that horrible red on it



They had even managed to deplug two of the original holes  You can see one of the two clamps for the support bar has been dug out:



So that had to have some filler  . Whilst that was hardening I had a little scrape of the vertical support and then went back and filed/sanded the filler. So the next two parts:



Sexy unlike an Aceira has tapered gibs I had not come across them before but they are nice  So a bit more together:



Then back out to start scraping the motor and its mount. Before I got too far I decided to take the cover off the motor and have a peak:



Someone has very generously labeled it up to go on a three phase converter. Shame I will not be using one  . It is currently set up in star for running on 415v I need to wire it in delta, some nice Swiss chappie has put the diagram in the cover:



So that is not beyond the wit of woman to rewire.  But this lot is a bit more of a challenge:



I have got to make up my own remote and program up the inverter drive for Sexy's motor. Whilst I thought about it I had a little bit more scraping I could do:



Not yet finished but getting there

Jo

[Florian Eberhard]

Tapered gibs are by the way better (in my oppinion) as the gibs are supported on the full surface and not only at some spots.

You maybe try first what happens if you dillute your paint before you apply it on your machine (Just to be shure you get the right effect. Also making it too thin is not good as it will end up in paint drops flowing downwards.

[Don1966]

Darn Jo, I don't look in for a while and you have it in parts and stripped down. Can I hire you? Man you know how to get things done. Great job! 

Don

[b.lindsey]

Looking good Jo..i like the new color too!!

Bill

[Jo]

Thanks Guys 

Man you know how to get things done. Great job! 

Don

When you get that burning passion nothing else matters: Tools and making model engines has always had this effect on me I am sure something else was meant to 

-----

I am still thinking about that inverter, wiring diagram attached. I am tempted to put the controls in the front panel of the base where the original controls were.

Then I can start looking forward to making some swarf 

Jo

PS Sorry about the size of the wiring diagram my current computer does not have the software to enable me to reduce the number of pixels

[Jo]

So Sexy is comming along so next I need to think of a couple of goodies to go with it. And the first item that has got need to have written all over it is the tilting carrier:



So boys with Aciera F1's I need some measurements: I believe that the central shaft is 35mm diameter and tee slots are 8mm wide/15mm at the base, but:

1, What is the diameter of the centre of the Tee ring on the backing plate?

2, What is the distance from the back of the quadrant plate to the centre of the pivot hole.

3, what is the diameter of the graduated edge?

I feel a need for some castings to be made 

Jo

[steamer]

let me get through the day girl.......then I'll have some time off...and I can get to lots of things I owe lots of people......

[Tennessee Whiskey]

Yeah like that $20 you owe me Dave :  ( not really)
Sorry Jo, couldn't let one like that slip by. I do believe you do have some "biker spirit", it ain't even running yet and you are already wanting to add accessories

Whiskey