Author Topic: MARBLE LIFTING AUTOMATION  (Read 50751 times)

Offline Brian Rupnow

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Re: MARBLE LIFTING AUTOMATION
« Reply #105 on: November 02, 2013, 11:48:19 PM »
Well, I made a start on the pulley today. Short form goes like this.--Buy flatbar--Lay out circle with old drafting compass--Cut off everything that isn't part of the circle with bandsaw--Clamp plate between live tailstock center and chuck jaws and knock off most of the remaining corners--clamp in 3 jaw chuck, and away we go!!! Every time I hollow out the face on a pulley like this I seem to do it a different way. Most reliable way it seems is to make a series of plunge cuts at 90 degrees to the face with an old cut-off tool that I have ground to a long tapering point, close to the center hub. After enough plunge cuts side by side, I take it to the finished depth and wide enough to get a boring tool into what has now become a circular slot, and then use the boring tool to make successive passes towards the outer rim. Probably there are better ways to do this, but it works for me. Tomorrow if I have any ambition I'll flip it around in the chuck and do the other side.

Offline Brian Rupnow

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Re: MARBLE LIFTING AUTOMATION
« Reply #106 on: November 02, 2013, 11:52:36 PM »
Good Lord Alan--Sharpen my own bandsaw blades?? I'd rather try home brain surgery. I can afford the $50 once a year.--Brian

Offline Brian Rupnow

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Re: MARBLE LIFTING AUTOMATION
« Reply #107 on: November 03, 2013, 04:37:48 PM »
As my friend Mr. Dundee  once said--"Now this is a pulley!!! I still have to put the six holes in it. They don't actually do anything, other than make it more visible that the pulley is really turning. These are not critical holes in any way, so I may just lay them out, pop an indent  with the center punch, and take them out to my big old drill press in the garage to drill.--Still, rather a pig of a thing to hold onto while drilling 1" diameter holes  thru the 1/4" web.

« Last Edit: November 03, 2013, 07:08:28 PM by Brian Rupnow »

Offline Alan Haisley

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Re: MARBLE LIFTING AUTOMATION
« Reply #108 on: November 03, 2013, 05:10:18 PM »
Brian,
Now that you have the pulley, how much (finger measured) torque is needed with the tube loaded? It looks like it will take nothing at all to turn it.
Alan
p.s. He was sharpening wood blades with a lot fewer TPI than we might use.

Offline Brian Rupnow

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Re: MARBLE LIFTING AUTOMATION
« Reply #109 on: November 03, 2013, 07:09:51 PM »
I don't know yet Alan--Not much though. I haven't got the pulley anchored to the shaft yet.

Offline swilliams

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Re: MARBLE LIFTING AUTOMATION
« Reply #110 on: November 03, 2013, 09:46:09 PM »
It's coming together Brian. Looking good!

Steve

Offline Brian Rupnow

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Re: MARBLE LIFTING AUTOMATION
« Reply #111 on: November 03, 2013, 11:24:50 PM »
My holes are in, but Jeez, what a dance!! I ended up using toe clamps to clamp the pulley to the mill table, then for each hole it was--put the chuck in, with a homemade "pointer" and run the table around until the pointer was on center of my "punch" marks. Take the "pointer" out of the chuck and put a 3/8" drill in. Drill thru, remove the 3/8" drill and put in a half inch drill and drill thru. Remove chuck, put in 3/4" endmill and mill thru the web. Remove the 3/4" endmill and put a 7/8" endmill and mill thru the hub. Remove the 7/8" endmill and put a 1" endmill in and finally mill thru to end up with a 1" hole. Then repeat 5 times. My mill is not a tower of power!!! Anything much over 1/2" diameter and it blows the glass fuse. The glass fuses are $3 each and you can't buy them anywhere on Sunday. I do keep spares around, but try not to blow them if I can help it. Oh well, job is done, and the holes look good. Now I can move on to one of the more interesting parts.

Offline Tinkerer58

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Re: MARBLE LIFTING AUTOMATION
« Reply #112 on: November 05, 2013, 05:08:38 AM »
when fuse blows put foil around it LOL NOT, but it has got me out of trouble at times. A definite NO NO but when push comes to shove you do what you have to do.

But honestly at $3.00 a pop (literally) I'd be doing a mod and fitting a circuit breaker, don't know where you buying your fuses but they only cost like $0.10 to make I think someone has you by the sort and curlies.
If you do need those fuses I'd be looking around for suppliers that supply components the the electronics or electrical industries.

I had similarly been ripped off for a drive belt for my previous small lathe at $60.00 for a 750mm 5 mm wide belt. I ended up getting a PK automotive belt with 6 ribs and cut them around the circumference and I got 5 belts for $12.00. They out lasted the original OE belt by 5 times. It pays to think outside the square at times.
« Last Edit: November 05, 2013, 05:14:45 AM by Tinkerer58 »
I just wanna be in me bloody shed.

Offline swilliams

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Re: MARBLE LIFTING AUTOMATION
« Reply #113 on: November 05, 2013, 05:39:37 AM »
Might try looking for them at deal extreme. Just a thought

http://dx.com

Steve

Offline Tinkerer58

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Re: MARBLE LIFTING AUTOMATION
« Reply #114 on: November 05, 2013, 07:30:32 AM »
Brian try Future Electronics if you need 3AG glass fuses minimum order for 75 pcs will cost you about $9.50, they are in Canada.
I just wanna be in me bloody shed.

Offline steamboatmodel

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Re: MARBLE LIFTING AUTOMATION
« Reply #115 on: November 05, 2013, 02:08:39 PM »
Brian,
If I had knowen you used glass fuses before I moved I could have given you a box of a couple of hundred of them. My new house has circuit breakers and I didn't need them. Have you looked at the screw in circuit breakers? I had a number of them in the fuse pannel at the old place on circuits that got overloaded frequently. I think you can get them at Can Tire.
Regards,
Gerald.
Be wary of strong drink. It can make you shoot at tax collectors--and miss. Lazarus Long

Offline Brian Rupnow

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Re: MARBLE LIFTING AUTOMATION
« Reply #116 on: November 05, 2013, 02:28:53 PM »
The fuses I am talking about look very similar to the old style automotive fuses. They are a glass cylinder about 3/16" diameter  x 3/4" long with steel ends on them, and are labelled as "fast acting 10 amp.--Well, they certainly got the "fast acting" part right!!!

Offline steamboatmodel

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Re: MARBLE LIFTING AUTOMATION
« Reply #117 on: November 05, 2013, 02:40:49 PM »
Ok I know that style, the only ones I had of those were in the pannel.
Gerald.
Be wary of strong drink. It can make you shoot at tax collectors--and miss. Lazarus Long

Offline dsquire

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Re: MARBLE LIFTING AUTOMATION
« Reply #118 on: November 05, 2013, 02:53:26 PM »
Brian,
If I had knowen you used glass fuses before I moved I could have given you a box of a couple of hundred of them. My new house has circuit breakers and I didn't need them. Have you looked at the screw in circuit breakers? I had a number of them in the fuse pannel at the old place on circuits that got overloaded frequently. I think you can get them at Can Tire.
Regards,
Gerald.

Gerald

I noticed this fuse and would like more information if possible. I searched Can Tire online and didn't find it. Could you read and write out or take a photo that I can enlarge and be able to read. Then I will have something better to search for.

I have a friend that lives in an old apartment and is constantly blowing fuses. Something like this would be the next best thing to having ciruuit breakers installed and save her a small fortune. Thanks. :)

Brian

Sorry to be off topic. This info might help both of us. :)

Cheers  :cheers:

Don
PS: I see you are talking about a different fuse now but I am still interested in this style Gerald. Don
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Offline Alan Haisley

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Re: MARBLE LIFTING AUTOMATION
« Reply #119 on: November 05, 2013, 03:14:35 PM »
Brian,
Future Electronics lists glass fuses rated 110V by 10A for 28 cents each, minimum order of 30. The 250V by 10A items are 14 cents each, but you have to buy 1000 of them. You might try Fair Radio or Digikey down here in the states to see if other quantities are available - even Radio Shack might have what you use.
I'd call around and see if any of these have a fast thermal breaker of the voltage and amperage you need and then make a housing for it - unless the 110V fuses are what you need. You didn't indicate what the working voltage for your mill is.
Alan

 

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