Author Topic: Joe's 1" Minne TE  (Read 77263 times)

Online Dan Rowe

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Re: Joe's 1" Minne TE
« Reply #15 on: October 01, 2013, 03:55:16 PM »
Hi Joe,
Hopefully that is the only problem and the second hydro works out. Nice pump though.

Cheers Dan
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Offline RonGinger

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Re: Joe's 1" Minne TE
« Reply #16 on: October 01, 2013, 03:58:25 PM »
I hope you have better luck with those side stay screws when you try to mount the horn plates. In my case because the copper boiler was not perfectly flat the plates wound up not parallel by quite a bit.

To fix it I mounded the boiler on my mill and got one side as near flat as possible. I measured to find the screw that was the lowest. I made a hollow mill which would pass over the screw and cut the top face of the nut. I set the mill depth stop for the lowest bolt and went around and hit every bolt. Once I had one side flat I mounted the horn plate on that side, flipped the boiler over and blocked the horn plate up flat on the table, Then did the same mill cut on all the bolts on that side.

I really dont like that design. The horn plates should have a good front and back plate so that it can be assembled square and flat, then the boiler dropped into that box and secured on something like an angle bar attached to the plates.

Online Jasonb

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Re: Joe's 1" Minne TE
« Reply #17 on: October 01, 2013, 08:41:39 PM »
Most minnie and for that matter almost all model TE copper boilers don't use the threaded stays now. Instead just solder in a thick stays that protrude from the boiler side, mill them true to the barrel, tap for fixings and screw your hornplates to that.

You can see that larger dia stays in this photo


J
« Last Edit: October 01, 2013, 08:46:34 PM by Jasonb »

Offline joe d

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Re: Joe's 1" Minne TE
« Reply #18 on: October 02, 2013, 02:25:35 AM »
Thanks, Dan

Ron:  about that hollow mill: was thinking along those lines, I've been looking at a piloted counterbore with a pilot hole that's dang near the right size

Jason:  Thanks, filed for next time!  That's a big'un on your mill, what's it going to be?

Joe

Online Jasonb

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Re: Joe's 1" Minne TE
« Reply #19 on: October 02, 2013, 08:01:48 AM »
Thats a 3" version of my 2" fowler on someone elses mill, 7 1/2" dia x 4mm thick barrel.

Offline joe d

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Re: Joe's 1" Minne TE
« Reply #20 on: October 03, 2013, 02:00:58 AM »
Serious stuff there, Jason.

On my rather smaller boiler, see here:



  120 PSI for 20 minutes, and no leaks  :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:

This was the bit of this project that had me most concerned, the rest is pretty straight forward machining,
just lots of it!

Cheers, Joe

Online Dan Rowe

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Re: Joe's 1" Minne TE
« Reply #21 on: October 03, 2013, 02:05:51 AM »
Nice one Joe. :whoohoo: I hope I do as well with the boiler for my build.

 :cheers:
Dan
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Offline arnoldb

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Re: Joe's 1" Minne TE
« Reply #22 on: October 07, 2013, 05:09:41 PM »
Good going Joe, and congrats on the hydraulic test.
That pump sure takes things up to pressure quickly  ;)

Kind regards, Arnold
Building an engine takes Patience, Planning, Preparation and Machining.
Procrastination is nearly the same, but it precludes machining.
Thus, an engine will only be built once the procrastination stops and the machining begins!

Offline joe d

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Re: Joe's 1" Minne TE
« Reply #23 on: October 08, 2013, 02:14:27 PM »
Dan: Thanks, don't think you will have any problems judging by your work so far!

Arnold: Good to hear from you.  Your clean-up is making me nervous: might have to actually try to find the floor in my shop :hellno:

Cut out some sheet for the hornplates, the soldering of the stays had left a nice little fillet on each stud so instead of cleaning that up and
probably creating some leaks, counter sunk the rear of each hole to let the plates sit down flat.  A bit of a fiddly process,
start with the highest one, shave out a little material, offer up, repeat. worked out ok in the end, all square and solid now.

I did get carried away with the filing on the bottom edge of these, they're now 1/16" shorter than they should be :hammerbash:
I'll have to either adjust the dimension of the tender sides when I get there, or add on a little molding to make up the difference.



Moving along...  needed some little angles 1/4 x 1/4 x 1/16" to fasten the spectacle plate and the back plate.  Mason suggests milling these out from solid, I elected to just shave down some 1/2 x 1/2 x 1/8" stuff that was on the shelf.



came out OK:


Made up a depthing tool to set out the locations for the various shafts

once the gears mesh properly, tighten up the nut at the joint, and use the pointed ends of the shafts underneath by setting one at a known location, and using the other as a scriber to mark the spot for  the next shaft.


I'll fasten the two hornplates together, and drill & ream the shaft holes through both at once, so hopefully they line up!

Cheers, Joe

Offline RonGinger

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Re: Joe's 1" Minne TE
« Reply #24 on: October 08, 2013, 10:19:40 PM »
Quote
I'll fasten the two hornplates together, and drill & ream the shaft holes through both at once, so hopefully they line up!

Be careful of how you reference these. I think you will need to use a surface gauge to scribe lines on the bottom edge of each plate while they are bolted onto the boiler. Then stand the boiler up on end and again scribe lines on the back edge. Once these edge are filed to the line you can then clamp the two plates together aligning with the edges.

I had a very hard time getting the plates to be exactly parallel so the axles would pass through and turn freely while mounted to the boiler.

Offline joe d

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Re: Joe's 1" Minne TE
« Reply #25 on: October 08, 2013, 11:43:33 PM »


Thanks, Ron. Appreciate the heads-up.

Offline Don1966

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Re: Joe's 1" Minne TE
« Reply #26 on: October 09, 2013, 12:48:58 AM »
Hi Joe, nice to see some progress. Congrats on your hydraulic test, bet that was a relief to not have any leaks, good going. Looks like the pump tested good also.

Don

Offline joe d

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Re: Joe's 1" Minne TE
« Reply #27 on: October 30, 2013, 03:04:21 PM »
A belated thanks, Don...  I was quite surprised at how quickly the pump pushed up the pressure :ThumbsUp:

been nibbling away at a number of things on the project since the last posting

Milled some 1/4 x 1/4 x 1/16 angle from some 1/2 x 1/2 x 1/8 that was in the "stuff" pile


these hold in the spectacle plate and back plate between the horn plates, and are riveted in place: this necessitated some riveting tools   :Lol:
so turned up a short length of O1 (silver steel) drilled one piece as a set, put a "dimple" in one with a ball-end mill, and made one with a step that
would locate it in the vise as an anvil, hardened them, and  :whoohoo:  they worked!


Then side tracked a bit while waiting for some reamers to arrive, started turning some steel drops into wheel rims: turned and faced, then chain drilled to remove a lot of excess material in the centre


laid out the drilling circle to get out the bit in the middle that is long enough to make both front rims, and one rear rim from what's left, and cleaned up the bore to have a clean surface to mount on the chuck for turning the outside dimension of the smaller bit once it is separated:


Then my reamers showed up, so got back to the bearings: reamed the remaining mounting holes,
chucked up a bearing blank using the spigot on one end to clean up the opposite face, sweated that onto a spare bit of brass, and centred pretty much by eye in the 4 jaw  to start cleaning it up .


moved over to the mill to clean up the non-circular side:


Coming along:


and then working on the 6th of 8 had a little  :hammerbash: moment, it came loose in the vise and I now have an interesting pattern engraved on
the top face:


so time for a :smokin2: and a cuppa 

Pondering options: I can sweat on a bit of material and shape it down to size, or just mill out the offending marks and live with the thing not matching the other side... will probably stop waffling and fix it right...

Cheers, Joe


Online Jasonb

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Re: Joe's 1" Minne TE
« Reply #28 on: October 30, 2013, 04:56:16 PM »
Or skim them both down so they match ;)

You may also want to add a notch in the flywheel side hornplate above the crankshaft bearing hole wide enough to clear the crank. This enables you to remove the crankshaft without removing the hornplate from the boiler, just unscrew the bearing, slide the crank along and out it comes.

You can just make it out on mine



Offline joe d

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Re: Joe's 1" Minne TE
« Reply #29 on: November 02, 2013, 03:20:39 AM »

Jason:  Thanks for that.  Took both bits of advice  :cheers:

Stuck both of the bearings on a little stub of appropriately sized rod, and milled them down together until the offending
divots were gone.  Maybe eventually it would have occurred to me that this was an  entirely arbitrary dimension... :Doh:



got them all in place now, with some random bits of rod to check for fit & relation to each other, and a notch for simplifying
crankshaft insertion/removal


Going to go quiet for a short time, heading out of town for a week.

Cheers, Joe