Author Topic: Sensitive Drilling Attachment. (Read 17426 times)

steamer · « **on:** August 03, 2013, 09:01:10 PM »

Hi All,

I'm making one of these for the SB.

See attached.

I found these plans on line, though I don't think they are yours Chris Heapy...though I downloaded them long ago...so I could be wrong there

I got a start on it today with my son....

More pictures to follow.

Dave

steamer · « **Reply #1 on:** August 03, 2013, 09:43:53 PM »

Here's the main body and guide

I got a MT2 blank and bored a .625 hole in the front 1 inch deep. I then make a guide blank from 5/8 stock to suite. Then I bored the guide in the headstock taper to .305...x 3.13 deep and then ran a reamer down. Seems real good, and is a good approximation of the original. I still need to put the slots in.

My son got a chance to do some of the drilling ...even though he doesn't feel well today.

Dave

Don1966 · « **Reply #2 on:** August 03, 2013, 10:26:14 PM »

Looking good Dave and thanks for the drawing. I need to add this to my list of many things to do.

Don

steamer · « **Reply #3 on:** August 03, 2013, 11:44:00 PM »

Thanks Don!

Here's the Jacobs taper dimensions...I'm going to turn a JT#0

To do that I need to set the compound to the correct angle. I will install a test bar in the headstock, and moving the compound, I'll set the taper until the rise measured with a dial indicator matches the per side rise listed above....being careful to get the DTI on center of the test bar.

Dave

steamer · « **Reply #4 on:** August 04, 2013, 01:34:42 AM »

Turned the taper and with a little brush with a file...I got a good blue with the chuck.

The into the mill for the 1/8 inch hole.

And where I stopped for today....The chuck has about .004" run out...not surprising for a Chinese chuck...the arbor is good...it's the chuck...
When I can save up some sheckles...I'll get a really nice Albrecht.......

Dave

ths · « **Reply #5 on:** August 04, 2013, 01:49:00 AM »

I think I have the same chuck on my pillar tool (0-4mm 5/32) with a similar runout. Disappointing, but it was as cheap as chips.

Ginger Nut · « **Reply #6 on:** August 04, 2013, 04:43:32 AM »

Nice WiP
Am I right in reading you have about a 1" travel of the shaft?

Is there any reason you chose a taper drill chuck over a say threaded chuck from an old drill or even a new one fairly cheap these days.?

Roger B · « **Reply #7 on:** August 04, 2013, 08:17:44 AM »

I have a similar MT2 blank in the drawer. Looks like another useful project to add to the list.

I have the same question about using a taper or a thread for the chuck?

steamer · « **Reply #8 on:** August 04, 2013, 12:49:30 PM »

A taper mount will be more accurate...run out wise..than a thread mount...as when your working small drills...that's important.
I just need to save the money for a good one.

The stroke...which is on the plans in the first post...is about 3/4"

Dave

sco · « **Reply #9 on:** August 04, 2013, 12:58:44 PM »

When you are looking for a nice chuck don't overlook Rohm - their Supra and particularly Spiro ranges are right up there with Albrecht.

Simon.

steamer · « **Reply #10 on:** August 04, 2013, 01:26:04 PM »

For those of you who are interested...here's Chris Heapy's design...Actually I think it's more simple and straight forward.....

See attached from the Easynet site...

Dave

steamer · « **Reply #11 on:** August 04, 2013, 01:32:21 PM »

And keeping with a theme....I made a sensitive drilling/taping attachment for my 12" logan...though not as small s the ones here. To be able to tap using small taps in a big lathe, I made it without a lever...you just grab the chuck in your hand and push the chuck....I started with a MT3 blank and bored it to fit a hardened drill bushing. I sized the bore to close the bushing up to a very close fit on a Albrecht straight shank....Very smooth, but a bit big for really small work.

I'll take a picture of it in a bit.

Dave

steamer · « **Reply #12 on:** August 04, 2013, 01:43:04 PM »

Gotta link Simon?

I'm listening.....

Dave

sco · « **Reply #13 on:** August 04, 2013, 02:17:33 PM »

Couple on ebay, ignore the .co.uk - it's in the states;

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rohm-Spiro-Germany-0-5-32-drill-chuck-machinist-toolmaker-/330745518914?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d01f81b42

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rohm-Spiro-Chuck-3-16-1-8-5-8-871018-New-/370849067798

msc should be able to get them;

http://www.mscdirect.com/ProductComparisonView?item=70566864

Manufacturers website page;

http://uk.roehm.biz/index.php?id=336&action=showTypes&grpid=7856&cHash=89b98c9c2164cf8ee0f54116394ec6d5

Simon.

steamer · « **Reply #14 on:** August 04, 2013, 06:32:35 PM »

Thanks Simon!....I'll check that out!

Happiness is a DRO...

The link anchor is taking shape here....once the outside profile was done, I parted it from the mother stock and put in the clamp slot.

And then I turned up two #5-40 screws from so stainless stock and then mounted the roughed out part onto the attachment to face and turn the ends.

Its taking shape now...Needs some TLC with a needle file....and shorten the screws.

I'll make the saddle link next....after some yard work is done.

Dave

Jo · « **Reply #15 on:** August 04, 2013, 06:34:33 PM »

Quote from: steamer on August 04, 2013, 06:32:35 PM

Happiness is a DRO...

Once you have had one..

Jo

Don1966 · « **Reply #16 on:** August 04, 2013, 07:04:58 PM »

Shaping up Dave, I like.........

Don

steamer · « **Reply #17 on:** August 05, 2013, 03:33:55 AM »

Started the Saddle link, but the hour has the best of me.....

Dave

swilliams · « **Reply #18 on:** August 05, 2013, 09:18:41 AM »

Nice DRO usage Dave, I like it!

Steve

Roger B · « **Reply #19 on:** August 05, 2013, 11:05:04 AM »

Having had a look at my MT2 adaptor (similar to yours) I think I would change the design as follows:

Put flats on the sides of the large diameter of the adaptor.

Screw a plate either side to replace the link anchor.

Use a single wide link.

Make the operating arm as a fork rather than a yoke

I will try and sketch this up tonight.

steamer · « **Reply #20 on:** August 05, 2013, 04:29:04 PM »

Have at it Roger!....post a sketch too!

Dave

Roger B · « **Reply #21 on:** August 05, 2013, 08:36:32 PM »

This is my initial concept. It needs some detailing like grub screws to hold the pivots and thread details. For me at the moment the less milling operations the better. (It's either the vertical slide on the mini lathe or my modified Proxon drill).

steamer · « **Reply #22 on:** August 05, 2013, 10:17:16 PM »

That'll work just fine Roger!.....Well done!

Dave

steamer · « **Reply #23 on:** August 06, 2013, 11:02:30 AM »

Not much done last night....lost the glass slipper and turned into a pumpkin....but got another screw made....did get a new 115 piece drill set to set up at the lathe permanently .....

I have two other sets...in various condition...which I'll organize into one good set, and leave at the mill station....gonna try that out for a while and see if I like it. Seems I might be wasting space in the bench drawer for drill bits....that might be better stored at the machines...

Dave

tel · « **Reply #24 on:** August 08, 2013, 12:56:11 AM »

From memory I think I used off-the-shelf 2BA bolts & nuts in mine.

'Here's one I prepared earlier'!

Tennessee Whiskey · « **Reply #25 on:** August 08, 2013, 01:17:40 AM »

Looks pretty good for an old roo wrangler. Now, I have one of those starter questions. How do you accurately measure the small end of a tapered piece? The big end I don't seem to have problem with.

Eric

tel · « **Reply #26 on:** August 08, 2013, 01:20:52 AM »

Waaaaal Neck these'd no need to measure the little end - just set the topslide over using an MT2 centre as a gauge and have at it until you get the right length and the big end on size.

steamer · « **Reply #27 on:** August 08, 2013, 01:35:40 AM »

Wot Tell Said!
The trick is to tram the taper with the dial indicator right at center height
that is the real taper. And patience!

Dave

tel · « **Reply #28 on:** August 08, 2013, 01:41:20 AM »

Yep, thought I had a pic of the set-up here but can't find it offhand. BUT if you make the Frank Ford DI holder there is no need to worry about centre height either as you have about 3/16" leeway up and down

http://www.frets.com/HomeShopTech/Tooling/IndicatorHolder/indicatorholder.html

steamer · « **Reply #29 on:** August 08, 2013, 03:50:36 AM »

I remember that one Tel!......damn now I have to put it on the list....

Pete49 · « **Reply #30 on:** August 08, 2013, 04:03:29 AM »

I hope this doesn't
go against forum rules but if it does feel free to delete mighty mods. Here's a link to how I did mine for my mini lathe....http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/south-bend-lathes/turning-morse-taper-151235/......... A simple and no need for a DTI though I did double check with one.
Pete

steamer · « **Reply #31 on:** August 08, 2013, 04:16:41 AM »

No worries Pete...That's fine!

Dave

tel · « **Reply #32 on:** August 08, 2013, 04:21:26 AM »

Exactly the same method Pete - the DI just makes it a bit more accurate (IMHO)

I would venture to say that, given that the topslide is set up to the correct angle, one could produce a perfectly acceptable taper with no measurement at all.

ths · « **Reply #33 on:** August 08, 2013, 06:07:18 AM »

Tel, I've never seen that before. Must make one. Great idea.

steamer · « **Reply #34 on:** August 31, 2013, 05:20:29 PM »

Got more done on the fixed yoke. I will work on the moving yoke and post a bit. Then back to the Wallaby....it's a rainy day...good to be in the shop.

Dave

steamer · « **Reply #35 on:** September 01, 2013, 01:10:48 AM »

Done!

We'll have to try it with a small drill. I put a drill in and tried to centralize the run out...you have 2 chances...by rotating the chuck.

Moves nice and smooth.....and drills holes.....I'll put a really small drill in and try it.

The small 3/16-40 screws gave me trouble. I have a taps and dies for these,,,but the dies would not cut a thread.

I ended up single pointing it in Samantha...which worked very well.

The rest was no real big deal...and it all needs a good polishing with a good file and some paper...but it works nice.

Dave

swilliams · « **Reply #36 on:** September 01, 2013, 01:29:55 AM »

Looks great Dave. A very handy gadget!

Steve

steamer · « **Reply #37 on:** September 01, 2013, 02:28:31 AM »

Thanks Steve!

Some action photo's with a .040 (#60) drill....

And a new rack on the side of the tool box for tailstock tooling....keeps it handy.

Dave

Don1966 · « **Reply #38 on:** September 01, 2013, 02:55:48 AM »

Dave that is a nice attachment, looks like I need to make one as well. More to the list of things to do.

Don

Maryak · « **Reply #39 on:** September 01, 2013, 02:57:32 AM »

Hi Dave,

A very nice addition to your tools.

Best Regards
Bob

steamer · « **Reply #40 on:** September 01, 2013, 04:16:35 AM »

Thanks Bob!

Dave

Ginger Nut · « **Reply #41 on:** September 18, 2013, 12:33:37 PM »

Now thats a neat little drill attachement thanks for the WiP.

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Author Topic: Sensitive Drilling Attachment. (Read 17426 times)