Author Topic: New (to me) bandsaw (Read 8871 times)

smfr · « **on:** July 19, 2013, 06:14:03 AM »

I was excited yesterday to get an email from our local estate sale organizers about a "Full machine shop" sale, and managed to find time before work to go take a look.

These are always a mixture of sad (for the person's estate), and exciting to find goodies. Lots of stuff at this one, including a nice Jet mill and Enco lathe, and plenty of tooling (though mostly Enco stuff). Also a part-made steam locomotive, which I was happy to see get sold to a nice gent who showed me pictures of his steam launch on his iPhone

. I picked up a few bits of tooling and some metal stock, then pondered over this Central Machinery bandsaw:

It sure would make cutting stock easier and more accurate. Some quick pricing on the internet showed me that Harbor Fright sell the current model for $250, and I was able to bargain this one down to $175, so I plunked down the cash. It was made in 1998 in Taiwan, so is probably a bit better made than the current models.

Once home I gave it a bit of a cleanup. Rookie that I am, I also started loosening the screws holding that cover on when it was vertical, and quickly stopped when oil started pouring out! Ah, so that's a gearbox

The oil's in pretty good shape, though it seems over-filled according to the manual (which I found here: http://tinyisland.com/images/HF-37151.pdf)

I'm missing the table for use in the vertical position, but it should be easy to make one. I gave it a quick test on some scrap Al, and it cut well, but the blade needs a bit of adjustment to get a vertical cut. I'll probably invest in some US-made blades too; maybe 18TPI and 24TPI?

It should be a useful addition to the workshop, and makes me no longer scared of having to cut large hunks of material for barstock engines

Simon

johnl · « **Reply #1 on:** July 19, 2013, 06:38:14 AM »

I have the Harbor Freight version of that saw. After adjusting the guides a little it cuts great.

Alan Haisley · « **Reply #2 on:** July 19, 2013, 06:45:36 AM »

I have one also. The one thing I did was to beef up the legs by bolting a piece of holey L bar to either side and then lay a piece of plywood across. As originally put together, the sheet metal legs just seemed to "bouncy" and fragile.
I have a Starrett blade hanging on the wall for when I need a new one, but the one from HF that I bought seems fine for now.
Alan

Steamer5 · « **Reply #3 on:** July 19, 2013, 08:49:37 AM »

Hi Simon,
Nice score, can watch it for hours cutting away, & not working up a sweat doing it! I cut 16 wheels for my trolleys from 125 mm bar & didn't lose a drop.
Here's a link to a table for your saw, I've got it on my to do list, I've got some 6 mm ali plate that I'm going to rivet together to make it.....well that's the plan

http://www.micro-machine-shop.com/band_and_abrasive_cutoff_saws.htm

The site also has a bunch of other interesting info too.

Happy cutting!

Cheers Kerrin

Arbalest · « **Reply #4 on:** July 19, 2013, 08:53:40 AM »

Looks good Simon. A decent blade on these things can make a huge difference so don't be afraid of buying an upgrade if you can.

tel · « **Reply #5 on:** July 19, 2013, 08:55:54 AM »

That is a good score! Identical to mine (an RF115) which I bought new in 1985. Been a good saw, but getting past it a bit now. The newer ones can't hold a candle to 'em tho', which is why I haven't replaced it.

b.lindsey · « **Reply #6 on:** July 19, 2013, 11:51:03 AM »

Nice find Simon....looks like it has not been used much and will certainly make life easier!!

Bill

steamer · « **Reply #7 on:** July 19, 2013, 12:32:03 PM »

I've got the same saw but about 2 years older. Looks the same!....
One of the most used tools in my shop!.....You will not regret it!

Yes go with some good US made blades...and keep a few handy. Don't cut steel on the high speed and the blades will last forever.

Getting them to track can be finicky...but doable...just be patient,

Good Score Simon!

Dave

Ian S C · « **Reply #8 on:** July 19, 2013, 02:37:44 PM »

Must look up the information again, but I read some where on the net that the 6' x 4" hor/vert bandsaw was designed in USA for one of the large chain stores in the 1950s I think, so they have been around quite some time. Ian S C

cfellows · « **Reply #9 on:** July 19, 2013, 02:51:41 PM »

Mine was bought from Enco back in 1993 or 94, but looks just like yours. Probably the most used tool in my shop. I've never used the vertical table that came with it and others have made variations on the original one.

As others have said, you need to check the tracking occasionally. I had to replace the original guide bearings in mine 5 or 6 years after I got it, but they were cheap enough. I also had to replace the motor around a year ago. Bought a good, used 1/2 horsepower UL tested motor and it works better than ever.

To make mine more stable, I removed the feet that came on it and bolted it down to a flat, rectangular piece of 3/4" plywood. I mounted the whole thing on 2" casters so I could store it against the wall and roll it out when I need to use it. The plywood makes a good shelf for storing heavy objects.

Do buy a good bi-metal blade. They cost about $20 but they do seem to last forever. You'll be replacing the cheaper blades about once a month.

Chuck

steamer · « **Reply #10 on:** July 19, 2013, 03:21:23 PM »

Wot Chuck Said!

I repladed the base on mine ala Rudy, and mine sits low enough now that it rolls under the bench...which is a great space savings!

Never used the vertical table....

Dave

Mosey · « **Reply #11 on:** July 19, 2013, 03:29:43 PM »

I bought my ubiquitous (how's that, Marv?) Chinese band saw some years ago when I decided to make another plate for my dividing head, 5" diameter cast iron, which I sawed from a 5" diameter CI cylinder. It took over an hour for my saw, and I stopped it once to let the motor cool, but it did the job. I figured out that to cut it with my hand hacksaw would take about a week, and I would probably pass out while doing it. It is still going strong with a Starrett blade, it really cuts.

Mosey

Alan Haisley · « **Reply #12 on:** July 19, 2013, 04:03:16 PM »

Quote from: Mosey on July 19, 2013, 03:29:43 PM

I bought my ubiquitous (how's that, Marv?) Chinese band saw some years ago when I decided to make another plate for my dividing head, 5" diameter cast iron, which I sawed from a 5" diameter CI cylinder. It took over an hour for my saw, and I stopped it once to let the motor cool, but it did the job. I figured out that to cut it with my hand hacksaw would take about a week, and I would probably pass out while doing it. It is still going strong with a Starrett blade, it really cuts.
Mosey

You missed out. If you had done it with the hacksaw you would probably be able to one handed bench press 300 pounds now.

Of course you would also probably keep falling over to one side because of the weight of the arm.

Alan

Mosey · « **Reply #13 on:** July 19, 2013, 04:44:45 PM »

I can bench 300 lbs with one hand, but only on that side. I do fall over occasionally, but not from the weight of my arm.
Mosey

smfr · « **Reply #14 on:** September 16, 2013, 04:36:41 AM »

I recently made up a cutting table for this bandsaw for use in the vertical position from a bit of Al plate. First op was to cut the blade slot:

which pushed the limits of my little mill! Then I drilled and countersunk the fixing holes, and milled a groove for a sled:

and also milled a 1/8" groove behind where the blade is, so that burrs raised by the cut don't raise the part on the table. Not very pretty, but it gets the job done!

Oh, and I had to mill the top surface of the blade guide to get a good seat, since it was a rough casting surface even though the saw ships with a plate screwed onto it! Qwality!

Simon

sshire · « **Reply #15 on:** September 16, 2013, 03:39:21 PM »

Simon
When I had my 4x6, I followed this procedure. It made a huge difference.

http://xa.yimg.com/kq/groups/4861259/375269388/name/Basic+adjusting

smfr · « **Reply #16 on:** September 16, 2013, 04:43:25 PM »

Thanks for that link, Stan! I do have a new blade on it, but I should look over the list of other adjustments.

Simon

sshire · « **Reply #17 on:** September 16, 2013, 08:12:17 PM »

The main problem is that the wheels are hardly ever coplanar. Following the procedure, I got mine to be coplanar and it made a big difference in easier tracking, cut quality, blade life, etc.

Nickle · « **Reply #18 on:** September 17, 2013, 11:10:20 AM »

Simon,

The pivot on mine is dramatically out of square with the table. If I sit a square in the open vice with the saw lowered the blade touches. By the time I have lifted the saw about 5" the blade is nearly 1/8 of an inch from the square. Check this on your machine as it will almost certainly impact on tracking if it is out of square as mine is. I have been too lazy to fix mine and either allow sufficient material to machine inaccuracies off or deliberately clamp material on an angle to compensate. As annoying as this is I wouldn't give this saw up. My hacksawing was no more accurate and took a lot more effort.

I've read other accounts of this problem on the web and I think the most practical solution is to machine off both lugs for the pivot on the base casting parralell with the vice base and then make a matched set of lugs. One day I might get fired up enough to have a go at this.

Regards

Nick

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