1/3rd Scale 5hp Galloway Build

[NickG]

Looks amazing Jason, did you do the lining free hand? Those oilers look just like ML7 headstock ones in miniature!

[Kim]

Jason,
Beautiful oiler & grease pots!  And that paint job is amazing! Beautiful finish work. 

Finishing is one of my least favorite parts of ANY project.  You feel so close, but yet, have so much work left to do.  But you're finish job is very impressive!
Kim

[PatJ]

Fabulous work Jason.

Thanks for posting.

Pat J

[Dave Otto]

You make it look easy Jason,

Nice work as always.


Dave

[steamer]

That looks great Jason!   I like the red.   Shouldn't be long before we get some pops.

Dave

[fumopuc]

Hi Jason, I would say that you have done a perfect and brillant job.

[Jasonb]

Some of you may recal that back in post #4 I said that I was considering not using the cast sub-base. I did fancy making the "cross cut rig" but after some consideration decided against that as at 1/3rd scale the whole thing would be about 54" long. Therefore I took the option of the "hand portable" cart and a bit of time spent on Google Images resulted in an old e-bay advert for an original Galloway hand cart and some useful dimensions in the description.



Armed with the sizes and photos I was able to arrive at a suitable design and decided to tackle the wheels first, this is what I was aiming to reproduce.



Luckily the wheels scaled out at 5.5" and I was able to buy some 139.7mm dia x 5mm wall ERW tube. I cut off two pieces long enough to get 2 rims out of each.



The rings were held in the 4 jaw trying not to distort things too much, that was why I opted to do two from each ring as at the early stages there would be twice the amount of metal so more rigid. The outside was just skimmed and a recess cut on the inside to take the rim down to 2mm thickness.





Once one was done it was just a case of doing it another 3 times before sawing down the middle to give the required 4 embrio rims





I also bought four 150mm x 5mm thick lazer cut steel discs from the same e-bay seller as the tube



And proceeded to trepan out the middle



Rather than cut all the way through and risk the central disk doing something you don't want I like to cut from both sides until almost meeting. Then support the disk and give the middle a whack and it should open up like a tin can







I then turned down the outsides so they would fit into the rims and rest in the bottom of the recess



Followed by a bit of silver solder



It was then back to the lathe to thin the other side down to 2mm, reduce the depth of the central web and then using a form tool to round over the web edge









That was a bit of a long one, next the hubs.

J

[ian cable]

nice set Jason, most people would like them that good on there traction engines let alone a hand truck ian c

[ths]

What did you use to braze those, just a torch, or a furnace?

Hugh.

[Jasonb]

25mm nozzle & cheap torch on a 4.5kg propane bottle

[Don1966]

Awesome Jason, you are up to your usual standards. I am interested in seeing the cart unfold and scaling it down even smaller. I should hope you post us some plans with dimensions so it can be scaled as seen fit.
Love to follow you progress.  and I do like...........

Don

[NickG]

Nice way of doing it, doesn't look easy but they're going to look spot on.

[Jasonb]

Hubs now, starting with 4 bits of 1.125" steel parted off from the bar



Machine to length, drill under size and turn the short parallel section on each end.



Make up a mandrel and with the aid of the ball turner cut the concave profile in one end



Flip it the other way round on the mandrel and do the other end, repeat for the other three hubs.



Reset the ball turner to round over the remaining central ridge.



Quick bit of blending with a file and emery and the basic shape is complete.



Now transfer the mandrel to the chuck on the rotary table and drill & tap six M4 holes followed by a shallow 1/4" counterbore



I used up all my 5/32" and 4mm steel making the spokes so the last few had to come from some chromed brass that was in the scrap box. Use about 50" of material in total. These were threaded M4 one end and rounded over on the other with a simple form tool.



I then cut six half round recesses into the rim web to suit the rounded end of the spokes




The hub nipples were faced to length and rounded over, to speed things up I arranged the two tools on the tool post to save having to rechuck 24 times. These were also tapped M4 for part of their length and drilled 4mm for the remainder.





A quick mock up of the hub, the spokes can be screwed in/out to true the wheel and then the nipples used as locknuts to hold them in place, the counterbore in teh nipple hides any spoke thread.



The rim nipples are a similar job but drilled 4mm right through and notched 5mm to slip over the rim web, this locks teh other spoke end in place.





All 4 wheels were then assembled with some soft solder paste where needed before heating to melt the solder. Following that I mounted them on the lateh, clocked the rim true and then bored the hub to finished size so the wheel would spin true on te axle.



A quick clean up and thats the wheels done.



J

[tangler]

Lovely work Jason.  It had never occurred to me to put two toolholders in the toolspost at once 

Your productivity is extraordinary.  I don't work for a living anymore and I only get a tenth done of what you do.  Do you and Jo have access to time turners?

Keep it up.

Rod

[Ramon Wilson]

Superbly thought out Jason - lovely work indeed.

Rod's right how do you make so much of your time.

Ramon