T-NUTS for ML7

[Ginger Nut]

Mods if this in wrong place please move. it is not a bashing of RDG as they have been great to have a 2nd parcel shipped to me with in 4 days.

Ok quick story I ordered a clamping set for an ML7 yes I selected right parts, through RDG it arrives one T-nut missing and well they are not imperial thread but metric and T-nuts will not fit.
Emails and all will be fixed 2nd parcel arrived today and yep exactly the same set again but no T-nut missing.

Now the T-nut is the right size 3/8 to fit the top section the problem is the lower section shape, if I machine, grind, sand or file the edges will this effect strength?

Photo showing problems below.

[Stuart]

yes it will be OK

question   did you buy from RDG as RDG or from Myford as RDG


These Are OK and will fit I know because I have a set

http://myford.co.uk/acatalog/CLAMPING_AND_WORK_HOLDING.html

fourth Item down

But he its not a big job to make them , I got a set because the mill was set up for a long ( in time ) job and I needed some in a hurry like yesterday

Stuart

[ths]

A bit of a bummer, this. I was thinking about t nut strips today (strangely enough), and thought that perhaps RDG sold them. I know that they do with their Myford hat on, but they're pricey. There was a bloke on eBay.au that was making them, but I haven't noticed his presence lately. There have been many threads on the Model Engineer site regarding 'fit for purpose', this would fit in well. I'd contact them and just say they don't fit. I'd also file them to fit, milling would be better.

It's important that the faces of the t-nut that contact the undersides of the slot when pulled tight are flat and perpendicular to the thread. You could do this by cutting the appropriate thread on a bit of metal held in the chuck, screwing the nut on, then turning it down till the correct depth is reached.

Hugh.

[Jasonb]

Have you got a link to the set? the only ones I can see that are mentioned for the Myford are the bolts with the rounded tees, or nuts on their Myford page. The 3/8" threaded individual nuts or clamp sets that I can see don't say for Myford.

J

[Ginger Nut]

Thanks guys will do this a little different as everyone has asked same question regarding which one I ordered and it was confirmed they were the right clamping kit for a Myford. First set down.

http://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/Imperial_Clamping_Kits.html

FIFTY TWO PIECE STEEL CLAMPING SET FOR USE ON EQUIPMENT WITH 3/8   FIFTY TWO PIECE STEEL CLAMPING SET FOR USE ON EQUIPMENT WITH 3/8" T-SLOTS
Ref: 649
FIFTY TWO PIECE STEEL CLAMPING SET FOR USE ON EQUIPMENT WITH 3/8" T-SLOTS. COMPRISES 24 STUDS (4 EACH OF 3", 4", 5", 6", 7" AND 8" LONG), 6 T-NUTS, 4 COUPLING NUTS, 6 FLANGE NUTS, 6 STEP CLAMPS AND 6 STEP BLOCKS ALL IN A HANDY STORAGE RACK READY FOR MOUNTING ON A WALL OR THE SIDE OF YOUR MACHINE CABINET. THIS IS A VERY NICE SET MADE FROM HIGH QUALITY HEAT TREATED BLACKED STEEL, IDEAL FOR ANYONE WITH A SMALL MILLING MACHINE. THREAD SIZE IS 5/16 WHITWORTH, TOTAL WEIGHT 7kg

Price: £32.50

Free UK Mainland Postage

[Ginger Nut]

yes it will be OK

question   did you buy from RDG as RDG or from Myford as RDG


These Are OK and will fit I know because I have a set

http://myford.co.uk/acatalog/CLAMPING_AND_WORK_HOLDING.html

fourth Item down

But he its not a big job to make them , I got a set because the mill was set up for a long ( in time ) job and I needed some in a hurry like yesterday

Stuart

Stuart  see the link and details above of what I ordered I wanted a whole kit as I have the vertical milling attachment also not just the t-nuts.
To mdify your right I can hold them on the vertical mill and remove what ever is required while each is in the vice.

[Ginger Nut]

A bit of a bummer, this. I was thinking about t nut strips today (strangely enough), and thought that perhaps RDG sold them. I know that they do with their Myford hat on, but they're pricey. There was a bloke on eBay.au that was making them, but I haven't noticed his presence lately. There have been many threads on the Model Engineer site regarding 'fit for purpose', this would fit in well. I'd contact them and just say they don't fit. I'd also file them to fit, milling would be better.

It's important that the faces of the t-nut that contact the undersides of the slot when pulled tight are flat and perpendicular to the thread. You could do this by cutting the appropriate thread on a bit of metal held in the chuck, screwing the nut on, then turning it down till the correct depth is reached.

Hugh.

Hugh Yes I think the fellow on ebay is off another forum woodwork in metal work section.
If you look close at the photo see the V shape on the edge which is supposed to sit under the clamping edge  machining the face will not be a problem its that darn edge.

The top slide fits threads are all metric of the kit sent both lots thats no biggy I guess just means two types of spanners about.

[Ginger Nut]

Have you got a link to the set? the only ones I can see that are mentioned for the Myford are the bolts with the rounded tees, or nuts on their Myford page. The 3/8" threaded individual nuts or clamp sets that I can see don't say for Myford.

J

J see my link above they are not located in the RDG Myford section I did email RDG pre purchase and even the 2nd round Chris from RDG said they have set to fit the Myford and the 2nd set would be the right ones.

I'd say the pickers n packers have trouble with the boxes as they are not marked with any sizes at all other than length of bolts.

Anyway I mailed them again and said I will accept this lot and just machine what needs to be machined to make the T-nuts fit and put up with the metric threads.

[Jasonb]

One problem with taking a bit off the bottom is that the nuts are threaded so the bolt/stud will not screw right through, this stopps them getting wedged up against the underside of teh tee slot, you really need to reduce the upper surfaces.

The Myford tee slots are shallower than the average 3/8" wide slot that the kits are made for which RDG should have known.

J

[sco]

They are quite a nice design though in that the upper surface is undercut to minimise the bending off the T-slot lips - so I'd say take off the bottom to preserve this feature.

[Arbalest]

Whilst I have bought a couple in the past (can't remember why!) I would'nt think of buying T nuts, I make my own when I need them.
I started when I could'nt see the right size to fit my mill and then a guy at work said if you can't make better T nuts yourself than shop bought you need more practice ... 

[Stuart]

Ginger Nut

As you have now found out the tee slots on a Myford cross slide are not a normal standard tee slot , to make things with the same tee slots a special tee cutter is needed.

The reason for this none standard tee slot was because to put in a standard size slot would have mat the cross slide thicker hence reduced clearance for the work , so Myford when the at the old works sized up a slot that would work and give the desired clearance and this then became the Myford standard tee slot , so to cut to my point unless the tee nuts are to the Myford standard they will not fit as you have found to tall in the bottom

 Quote Hemingway kits  "  Cutters designed to cut Woodruff keyways, the profile of the 505 cutter will also generate a T-slot to accept standard Myford T nuts. "  that is a standard cutter from where ever you like

Stuart
 

[arnoldb]

Hi Ginger

Check the T-nuts with a file first before machining them; they could be hardened and do bad things to a normal HSS cutter if you're not aware of it.

Once you've machined,ground/filed off the bottom sections, use an ~8mm ball bearing and give the bottom of the threads a good whack with it to foul the threads; this will prevent studs from screwing through the nuts.  If you don't have a suitable ball, just use a cold chisel to foul the bottom threads.

Kind regards, Arnold

[Ginger Nut]

One problem with taking a bit off the bottom is that the nuts are threaded so the bolt/stud will not screw right through, this stopps them getting wedged up against the underside of teh tee slot, you really need to reduce the upper surfaces.

The Myford tee slots are shallower than the average 3/8" wide slot that the kits are made for which RDG should have known.

J

Thanks J

I will mic everything up and decide what has to come off where looking at the edges first why the heck these have got a V I'll never know I can't say I have ever seen a T-slot which is a V-slot 

[Ginger Nut]

They are quite a nice design though in that the upper surface is undercut to minimise the bending off the T-slot lips - so I'd say take off the bottom to preserve this feature.

It wouldn't be so bad if they were called V-slots    I imagine a lot of wear sliding them in and out would happen to the underside of the table over time.

[Ginger Nut]

Whilst I have bought a couple in the past (can't remember why!) I would'nt think of buying T nuts, I make my own when I need them.
I started when I could'nt see the right size to fit my mill and then a guy at work said if you can't make better T nuts yourself than shop bought you need more practice ... 

I agree it was the clamping whole system and speed I was after 

[Ginger Nut]

Ginger Nut

As you have now found out the tee slots on a Myford cross slide are not a normal standard tee slot , to make things with the same tee slots a special tee cutter is needed.

The reason for this none standard tee slot was because to put in a standard size slot would have mat the cross slide thicker hence reduced clearance for the work , so Myford when the at the old works sized up a slot that would work and give the desired clearance and this then became the Myford standard tee slot , so to cut to my point unless the tee nuts are to the Myford standard they will not fit as you have found to tall in the bottom

 Quote Hemingway kits  "  Cutters designed to cut Woodruff keyways, the profile of the 505 cutter will also generate a T-slot to accept standard Myford T nuts. "  that is a standard cutter from where ever you like

Stuart

Stuart I hear you loud and clear..................maybe a  call,email through to RDG is required and let them know that where ever they are buying in the clamping kits from are not designed for Myford.

[Ginger Nut]

Hi Ginger

Check the T-nuts with a file first before machining them; they could be hardened and do bad things to a normal HSS cutter if you're not aware of it.

Once you've machined,ground/filed off the bottom sections, use an ~8mm ball bearing and give the bottom of the threads a good whack with it to foul the threads; this will prevent studs from screwing through the nuts.  If you don't have a suitable ball, just use a cold chisel to foul the bottom threads.

Kind regards, Arnold

Arnold many thanks I can imagine the damage done tightening a stud down forcing the T-nut up and a broken T-slot 

[Ginger Nut]

  Guys for all the help I did email RDG and let them know not sure what they will do for future buyers if I was in the UK I'd be on their doorstep with kits in hand squeazing for proper fitting nuts 

I will admit they did supply everything else ordered and delivery to Outer Sydney downunder in better time than some of our local suppliers can 5 days for the second kit.

Well onward and upward a job I can now do during winters worst as woodwork will take a back seat on lousy days. Been a top day today sunny but a nice chill wind off the snow.

[steamer]

My dealings with RDG so far have been pretty good...even for the other side of the pond.    I got that angle plate that was "precision ground" and then found it was out about .005"....I scraped it in, but I let RDG know.    They sent a freshly ground one out to me for no charge....so they at least stand by the products.

Dave

[tel]

I've always found 'em good as well.

[Ginger Nut]

My dealings with RDG so far have been pretty good...even for the other side of the pond.    I got that angle plate that was "precision ground" and then found it was out about .005"....I scraped it in, but I let RDG know.    They sent a freshly ground one out to me for no charge....so they at least stand by the products.

Dave

Dave its my first dealing with them after advised b a friend who has an ML7 in the UK and another with Super 7 here in Northern Territory. The service and delivery time of both the first order and replacement was excellent its the attention to whats ordered and as I said to RDG rep Chris picking and packing staff must have a heck of a problem as there is no identification serial No on the box or size other than length of studs in inches, not even a thread or T-nut size so every box would or should have to be opened and checked to fit. This is why I believe the first kit had a T-nut missing but they obviously did not check correct fit (right way up and slide it in) but upside down the T-nut fits.

 

[Ginger Nut]

I've always found 'em good as well.

Tel you'll know the feeling watching the GDP and $AU sliding down I jumped in just as the slide started with the first order I ordered a couple other things which came with the 2nd order I part paid postage they express delivered.

Tel I hope the temp out at Bathurst is not stopping you from being in the shed -2C this morning and looking just now 11C the ice wind is bad enough here off the snow. Bet you have a flurry over the next couple of days.

[tel]

  been laid up with bronchitis for the last 10 days - so not much workshop at all. And the parky, miserable weather ain't helping matters.

[steamer]

Sorry to hear that Tel!....hope you feel better!

Dave

[tel]

Nothing a bullet behind the ear wouldn't cure Dave!

[Tennessee Whiskey]

Tel, a trip to Tennessee and some of this "clear cold medicine" and you'll be good as new. Ain't no germ can live in that proof strength. Hope ya get to feeling better.

Yo Redneck,
Eric

[tel]

That the same as Granny's Rheumatiz Medicine? Might just do the trick.

[gmac]

....and if Eric's "clear cold medicine" doesn't work, I'll send you some Newfy Screech. It'll make the tassel on you hat stand up 

Cheers, hope things improve for you Tel.

Garry

[Ginger Nut]

been laid up with bronchitis for the last 10 days - so not much workshop at all. And the parky, miserable weather ain't helping matters.

Tel not good at all the flu I am still trying to shake after weeks but its not to bad this last week and a 1/2 I have been able to get some time out there garage door closed little fan heater going but usually just a couple of hours.

[steamer]

Tel I got hit with that 3 months ago....took weeks to go through....sorry buddy!

I would have rathered it was a dropbar actually.....

Dave

[zeeprogrammer]

a trip to Tennessee and some of this "clear cold medicine" and you'll be good as new. Ain't no germ can live in that proof strength.

You all need to learn 'preventive' medicine. Why wait till you get the bug?
I medicate every night. Haven't been sick in months.

Haven't gotten much done in months either.
But the medication helps that too.
Don't care as much.

 

sigh.