Author Topic: T-NUTS for ML7  (Read 16544 times)

Offline Ginger Nut

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T-NUTS for ML7
« on: June 17, 2013, 12:01:57 PM »
Mods if this in wrong place please move. it is not a bashing of RDG as they have been great to have a 2nd parcel shipped to me with in 4 days.

Ok quick story I ordered a clamping set for an ML7 yes I selected right parts, through RDG it arrives one T-nut missing and well they are not imperial thread but metric and T-nuts will not fit.
Emails and all will be fixed 2nd parcel arrived today and yep exactly the same set again but no T-nut missing. :thinking:

Now the T-nut is the right size 3/8 to fit the top section the problem is the lower section shape, if I machine, grind, sand or file the edges will this effect strength?

Photo showing problems below.


Offline Stuart

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Re: T-NUTS for ML7
« Reply #1 on: June 17, 2013, 12:11:46 PM »
yes it will be OK

question   did you buy from RDG as RDG or from Myford as RDG


These Are OK and will fit I know because I have a set

http://myford.co.uk/acatalog/CLAMPING_AND_WORK_HOLDING.html

fourth Item down

But he its not a big job to make them , I got a set because the mill was set up for a long ( in time ) job and I needed some in a hurry like yesterday

Stuart
My aim is for a accurate part with a good finish

Offline ths

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T-NUTS for ML7
« Reply #2 on: June 17, 2013, 12:22:40 PM »
A bit of a bummer, this. I was thinking about t nut strips today (strangely enough), and thought that perhaps RDG sold them. I know that they do with their Myford hat on, but they're pricey. There was a bloke on eBay.au that was making them, but I haven't noticed his presence lately. There have been many threads on the Model Engineer site regarding 'fit for purpose', this would fit in well. I'd contact them and just say they don't fit. I'd also file them to fit, milling would be better.

It's important that the faces of the t-nut that contact the undersides of the slot when pulled tight are flat and perpendicular to the thread. You could do this by cutting the appropriate thread on a bit of metal held in the chuck, screwing the nut on, then turning it down till the correct depth is reached.

Hugh.

Offline Jasonb

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Re: T-NUTS for ML7
« Reply #3 on: June 17, 2013, 12:35:50 PM »
Have you got a link to the set? the only ones I can see that are mentioned for the Myford are the bolts with the rounded tees, or nuts on their Myford page. The 3/8" threaded individual nuts or clamp sets that I can see don't say for Myford.

J

Offline Ginger Nut

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Re: T-NUTS for ML7
« Reply #4 on: June 17, 2013, 12:49:25 PM »
Thanks guys will do this a little different as everyone has asked same question regarding which one I ordered and it was confirmed they were the right clamping kit for a Myford. First set down.

http://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/Imperial_Clamping_Kits.html

FIFTY TWO PIECE STEEL CLAMPING SET FOR USE ON EQUIPMENT WITH 3/8   FIFTY TWO PIECE STEEL CLAMPING SET FOR USE ON EQUIPMENT WITH 3/8" T-SLOTS
Ref: 649
FIFTY TWO PIECE STEEL CLAMPING SET FOR USE ON EQUIPMENT WITH 3/8" T-SLOTS. COMPRISES 24 STUDS (4 EACH OF 3", 4", 5", 6", 7" AND 8" LONG), 6 T-NUTS, 4 COUPLING NUTS, 6 FLANGE NUTS, 6 STEP CLAMPS AND 6 STEP BLOCKS ALL IN A HANDY STORAGE RACK READY FOR MOUNTING ON A WALL OR THE SIDE OF YOUR MACHINE CABINET. THIS IS A VERY NICE SET MADE FROM HIGH QUALITY HEAT TREATED BLACKED STEEL, IDEAL FOR ANYONE WITH A SMALL MILLING MACHINE. THREAD SIZE IS 5/16 WHITWORTH, TOTAL WEIGHT 7kg

Price: £32.50

Free UK Mainland Postage

Offline Ginger Nut

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Re: T-NUTS for ML7
« Reply #5 on: June 17, 2013, 12:52:23 PM »
yes it will be OK

question   did you buy from RDG as RDG or from Myford as RDG


These Are OK and will fit I know because I have a set

http://myford.co.uk/acatalog/CLAMPING_AND_WORK_HOLDING.html

fourth Item down

But he its not a big job to make them , I got a set because the mill was set up for a long ( in time ) job and I needed some in a hurry like yesterday

Stuart

Stuart  see the link and details above of what I ordered I wanted a whole kit as I have the vertical milling attachment also not just the t-nuts.
To mdify your right I can hold them on the vertical mill and remove what ever is required while each is in the vice.

Offline Ginger Nut

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Re: T-NUTS for ML7
« Reply #6 on: June 17, 2013, 12:57:09 PM »
A bit of a bummer, this. I was thinking about t nut strips today (strangely enough), and thought that perhaps RDG sold them. I know that they do with their Myford hat on, but they're pricey. There was a bloke on eBay.au that was making them, but I haven't noticed his presence lately. There have been many threads on the Model Engineer site regarding 'fit for purpose', this would fit in well. I'd contact them and just say they don't fit. I'd also file them to fit, milling would be better.

It's important that the faces of the t-nut that contact the undersides of the slot when pulled tight are flat and perpendicular to the thread. You could do this by cutting the appropriate thread on a bit of metal held in the chuck, screwing the nut on, then turning it down till the correct depth is reached.

Hugh.

Hugh Yes I think the fellow on ebay is off another forum woodwork in metal work section.
If you look close at the photo see the V shape on the edge which is supposed to sit under the clamping edge  ::) machining the face will not be a problem its that darn edge.

The top slide fits threads are all metric of the kit sent both lots thats no biggy I guess just means two types of spanners about.


Offline Ginger Nut

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Re: T-NUTS for ML7
« Reply #7 on: June 17, 2013, 01:01:17 PM »
Have you got a link to the set? the only ones I can see that are mentioned for the Myford are the bolts with the rounded tees, or nuts on their Myford page. The 3/8" threaded individual nuts or clamp sets that I can see don't say for Myford.

J

J see my link above they are not located in the RDG Myford section I did email RDG pre purchase and even the 2nd round Chris from RDG said they have set to fit the Myford and the 2nd set would be the right ones.

I'd say the pickers n packers have trouble with the boxes as they are not marked with any sizes at all other than length of bolts.

Anyway I mailed them again and said I will accept this lot and just machine what needs to be machined to make the T-nuts fit and put up with the metric threads.

Offline Jasonb

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Re: T-NUTS for ML7
« Reply #8 on: June 17, 2013, 01:42:50 PM »
One problem with taking a bit off the bottom is that the nuts are threaded so the bolt/stud will not screw right through, this stopps them getting wedged up against the underside of teh tee slot, you really need to reduce the upper surfaces.

The Myford tee slots are shallower than the average 3/8" wide slot that the kits are made for which RDG should have known.

J

Online sco

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Re: T-NUTS for ML7
« Reply #9 on: June 17, 2013, 01:45:48 PM »
They are quite a nice design though in that the upper surface is undercut to minimise the bending off the T-slot lips - so I'd say take off the bottom to preserve this feature.
Ars longa, vita brevis.

Arbalest

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Re: T-NUTS for ML7
« Reply #10 on: June 17, 2013, 03:04:43 PM »
Whilst I have bought a couple in the past (can't remember why!) I would'nt think of buying T nuts, I make my own when I need them.
I started when I could'nt see the right size to fit my mill and then a guy at work said if you can't make better T nuts yourself than shop bought you need more practice ...  :Jester:

Offline Stuart

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Re: T-NUTS for ML7
« Reply #11 on: June 17, 2013, 03:16:09 PM »
Ginger Nut

As you have now found out the tee slots on a Myford cross slide are not a normal standard tee slot , to make things with the same tee slots a special tee cutter is needed.

The reason for this none standard tee slot was because to put in a standard size slot would have mat the cross slide thicker hence reduced clearance for the work , so Myford when the at the old works sized up a slot that would work and give the desired clearance and this then became the Myford standard tee slot , so to cut to my point unless the tee nuts are to the Myford standard they will not fit as you have found to tall in the bottom

 Quote Hemingway kits  "  Cutters designed to cut Woodruff keyways, the profile of the 505 cutter will also generate a T-slot to accept standard Myford T nuts. "  that is a standard cutter from where ever you like

Stuart
 
My aim is for a accurate part with a good finish

Offline arnoldb

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Re: T-NUTS for ML7
« Reply #12 on: June 17, 2013, 05:38:35 PM »
Hi Ginger

Check the T-nuts with a file first before machining them; they could be hardened and do bad things to a normal HSS cutter if you're not aware of it.

Once you've machined,ground/filed off the bottom sections, use an ~8mm ball bearing and give the bottom of the threads a good whack with it to foul the threads; this will prevent studs from screwing through the nuts.  If you don't have a suitable ball, just use a cold chisel to foul the bottom threads.

Kind regards, Arnold
Building an engine takes Patience, Planning, Preparation and Machining.
Procrastination is nearly the same, but it precludes machining.
Thus, an engine will only be built once the procrastination stops and the machining begins!

Offline Ginger Nut

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Re: T-NUTS for ML7
« Reply #13 on: June 18, 2013, 06:19:23 AM »
One problem with taking a bit off the bottom is that the nuts are threaded so the bolt/stud will not screw right through, this stopps them getting wedged up against the underside of teh tee slot, you really need to reduce the upper surfaces.

The Myford tee slots are shallower than the average 3/8" wide slot that the kits are made for which RDG should have known.

J

Thanks J

I will mic everything up and decide what has to come off where looking at the edges first why the heck these have got a V I'll never know I can't say I have ever seen a T-slot which is a V-slot  :shrug:

Offline Ginger Nut

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Re: T-NUTS for ML7
« Reply #14 on: June 18, 2013, 06:21:46 AM »
They are quite a nice design though in that the upper surface is undercut to minimise the bending off the T-slot lips - so I'd say take off the bottom to preserve this feature.

It wouldn't be so bad if they were called V-slots  :facepalm:  I imagine a lot of wear sliding them in and out would happen to the underside of the table over time.

 

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