Author Topic: Rons' Mastiff (Read 17929 times)

ozzie46 · « **on:** May 12, 2013, 04:20:01 PM »

Sorry I haven't been as active as I should have been for a while. Maye this will make up for it a little bit.

I started making this in the summer of last year. I made the crankcase from 4 pieces of aluminum.
I got the idea from a post by "nemt" on HMEM.

I used J-B weld to glue it together along with the screws.

The heads are 2 piece to make the water passages as this is a water cooled engine. They will be glued together also. They still have to be profiled to the cyl contours yet.

I was sweating bullets about making the crankshaft but it wasn't all that bad! I used some hot rolled steel and left it about .030 oversize and rested it for a few days before I finished it to size. I still have to thread both ends yet but it is true.

This is the top of the crankcase. The hole is to put the oil in and the raised pad is for mounting the carb or carbs as you can use 2 if you want.

This is the bottom of the oil pan or sump if you will. Sorry about the bad pic.

This part goes between the oil pan and the crankcase and has the engine mounting pads on it. How ever I goofed up and machined the mounting pads up side down. The will still work but it's not plan.

More to come.

Ron

steamer · « **Reply #1 on:** May 12, 2013, 04:24:08 PM »

Looks great Ron! Thanks for sharing that!
Keep it coming!

Dave

Jo · « **Reply #2 on:** May 12, 2013, 04:40:06 PM »

Looks good Ron. Looking forward to seeing some more

Jo

ozzie46 · « **Reply #3 on:** May 12, 2013, 04:47:51 PM »

The camshaft was harder to make than I thought it would be. It is made from a central stainless steel 1/4 in shaft and the lobes are made and then glued on with locktite . I will post more on this later when I take pics of the tooling to make it.

The rods and the wrist pins. As the wrist pins are floating they are drilled 3/32 for aluminum or some other kind of pin with a head that won't score the cyls.

The cyls have wet sleeves and were lapped using the tool that Len Mason described in his article on building the Mastiff. Ramon has shown the tool in his thread on lapping. The pistons were lapped to fit the cyls also. I made the rings and heat treated them too.
That was an interesting project in itself.

This is the timing gear housing for the front of the engine.

Here's the gears. I would like to take the opportunity to thank everyone who offered advice on gear cutting when for it a while back. It came in very handy and after I just got brave enough to do it I was surprised by how relatively easy it was. I cut them on a rotary table after practicing an some aluminum blanks first.

These are the practice ones.

The real ones.

And a family portrait so far.

Ron

ozzie46 · « **Reply #4 on:** May 12, 2013, 04:56:37 PM »

Thanks Dave. Thanks Jo.
I will post some more after I take a few more pics. Might be a day or few though

Ron

b.lindsey · « **Reply #5 on:** May 12, 2013, 05:11:44 PM »

You've done a lot of work there Ron, and it looks very good. Will look forward to more pictures and even more progress in the days ahead.

Bill

ozzie46 · « **Reply #6 on:** May 12, 2013, 06:12:44 PM »

Thanks Bill. This is my first IC engine and I will be happy if it runs even poorly.

Ron

Don1966 · « **Reply #7 on:** May 12, 2013, 06:47:07 PM »

Just finished reading your post Ron, you have some great looking parts. I will be following along with interest.

Don

ths · « **Reply #8 on:** May 12, 2013, 09:52:54 PM »

Hi Ron,

Things are looking really good. Is this the mastiff engine designed by L C Mason?

Cheers, Hugh.

ozzie46 · « **Reply #9 on:** May 13, 2013, 01:29:02 AM »

Thanks Don, I'll try to keep it interesting.

Thanks for looking in Hugh. Yes,that's the one.

Ron

vcutajar · « **Reply #10 on:** May 13, 2013, 06:17:12 AM »

Fantastic parts Ron.

Quote from: ozzie46 on May 12, 2013, 06:12:44 PM

This is my first IC engine and I will be happy if it runs even poorly.

I know the feeling.

Vince

Jo · « **Reply #11 on:** May 13, 2013, 08:03:12 AM »

Agreed.. Sometimes even a pop would be nice

Jo

ozzie46 · « **Reply #12 on:** May 13, 2013, 12:36:13 PM »

thanks Vince,
Jo I have been following your Double Tandem saga and am patiently awaiting the successful ending.

ozzie46 · « **Reply #13 on:** May 13, 2013, 05:22:26 PM »

Some more of the Mastiff.

These are the combined intake/exhaust manifolds. I still have to drill the exhaust port holes yet.

The oil dipstick and housing.It will be bolted to the side of the crankcase.
Some more of the Mastiff.

These are the combined intake/exhaust manifolds. I still have to drill the exhaust port holes yet.

The oil dipstick and housing.It will be bolted to the side of the crankcase.

A posed shot of the complete setup for turning.

The fixture will hold material for 2 lobes to be turned at a time.
One side of the plate is for intake and the other side is used for exhaust.

After the lobes are turned they cut in two with a thin slitting saw and finished machined and hardened as they are made out of drill rod/silver steel.

Now the fixture for assembling the cam lobes onto the 1/4in stainless steel rod to make up the cam.

A posed shot of the setup.

The cam lobes are lined up with the appropriate marks and lock tited on.

That's it for now, hope you enjoy it.

Ron

A posed shot of the setup.

The cam lobes are lined up with the appropriate marks and lock tited on.

That's it for now, hope you enjoy it.

Ron

arnoldb · « **Reply #14 on:** May 13, 2013, 05:50:42 PM »

I was wondering what you were up to Ron. Looks great so far, and there's a lot of work in the parts

Kind regards, Arnold

ozzie46 · « **Reply #15 on:** May 13, 2013, 08:46:56 PM »

Thanks Arnold, Yeah it keeps me pretty busy. But it's fun.

Ron

ozzie46 · « **Reply #16 on:** May 25, 2013, 11:54:29 PM »

Here's what little bit I've got done for yesterday and today. I'm not a very fast worker.

First I made up some little teflon buttons for the wrist pins. I got a large flat piece that had been in a limestone bin at a concrete manufacturing plant. It was supposed to help the rock slide down to the conveyor and help prevent wear on the bins I guess but it collapsed inside the bin and plugged everything up.Its blue in color.

Hers a shot with my finger in the way for scale. (Sorry about the blurry pic.)

What they look like after some careful carving with an x-acto # 11 blade and installed in the piston.

The blue rod is what I started with. I learned that to make the small pip to go in the wrist pin I had to turn it right to size first then turn the larger dia for the wrist pin bore in the piston. The stuff cuts very easy so there is no problem taking such a large cut.

I then did some threading on the camshaft and the crankshaft and called it a day. Need to get ready for church.

Hope you enjoy it.

Ron

ths · « **Reply #17 on:** May 26, 2013, 10:01:47 AM »

Looking great Ron. The Teflon will be up to the conditions?

Cheers, Hugh.

zeeprogrammer · « **Reply #18 on:** May 26, 2013, 11:16:20 AM »

I hadn't realized the size of this model until I saw your finger. Wow.
Nice gears! Gives me hope to make my own some day.

ozzie46 · « **Reply #19 on:** May 26, 2013, 01:35:55 PM »

Thanks Hugh. According to everything I've read it should be.

You can do it Zee, you've done some amazing work.

Ron

Don1966 · « **Reply #20 on:** May 26, 2013, 03:25:47 PM »

That's coming out great Ron, I perticularly liked the cam set up very innovative.

Don

vcutajar · « **Reply #21 on:** May 26, 2013, 05:37:14 PM »

Nice progress Ron.

Vince

ozzie46 · « **Reply #22 on:** May 26, 2013, 05:45:43 PM »

Thanks Don,but I can't take credit for the cam tooling It is all Ken Masons' from his article on the Mastiff in Model Engineer mag.

Thanks Vince.

Ron

arnoldb · « **Reply #23 on:** May 26, 2013, 08:12:18 PM »

Good going Ron

Those parts look pretty small

- could you perhaps take a photo of the crank and cam with something added for scale ? Pretty please

Kind regards, Arnold

ozzie46 · « **Reply #24 on:** May 26, 2013, 09:48:32 PM »

Here you are Arnold. That's a 6 in Machinist Rule for scale.

Ron

ozzie46 · « **Reply #25 on:** July 06, 2013, 01:49:25 PM »

I haven't posted anything on this for awhile but I have been making progress.

I took a slab of cast iron

and found this inside.

I first made it sort of close to round by sawing corners off in the band saw. I then gripped it in the 4 jaw by about ½ in and turned it round close to size. Then reversed it in the 4 jaw and repeated the exercise. Then I drilled the crankshaft hole to prepare it for bore the taper for the split collet later on.

I then changed to the 3 jaw chuck and machined up the split collet and parted it off.

Then I mounted the fly wheel blank in the 3 jaw up against the back of the jaws and bored the taper and faced it. Changed to my 5 C collet chuck and turned up a dummy crankshaft end and mounted the split taper collet and fly wheel on it and finish machining it to size. Trepanned in the recess in the face of the fly wheel and drilled the 2 holes 180* apart for the tool to remove the fly wheel from the shaft when needed.

Trial fit on engine.

More to come.

Ron

stevehuckss396 · « **Reply #26 on:** July 06, 2013, 01:55:48 PM »

NICE! everything looks real nice so far!

ozzie46 · « **Reply #27 on:** July 06, 2013, 02:15:11 PM »

Thanks Steve, here's a few more.

I silver soldered up some pieces to make the oil pump casing.

Sorry for blurry pic.

How ever I have to make another one as I didn't get the center distance for the gears right and they wouldn't fit. I used gears I had taken out of a printer that were close to the right outside diameter by about 20 or 30 thou. I didn't know the PCD and tried to spot from the gears and it didn't work.
Oh well, do over time.
I ordered gears of a known pitch so I can at least have a chance at getting it right this time.

Here is a pic of the helical gears I cut mounted in the engine. They turn fine.

And a glamor shot.

Ron

vcutajar · « **Reply #28 on:** July 06, 2013, 11:00:34 PM »

Thanks Ron for the update.

I have used that taper collect method to fix the flywheel to the shaft but it is always a pain to remove the flywheel at a later date.

Quote

drilled the 2 holes 180* apart for the tool to remove the fly wheel from the shaft when needed

What is this tool you are talking about? I always end up using a gear puller to remove the flywheel.

Vince

ozzie46 · « **Reply #29 on:** July 07, 2013, 03:50:43 AM »

Thanks for looking in Vince. The tool is basically just a bar with 2 holes the same distance apart as the holes in the fly wheel. The bar is about 1/4 or 5/16 in thick by about 1/2 in wide and 3 in or so long. The bar is butted up against the end of the crank and the bolts tightened up. The tightening of the bolts pulls the fly wheel off the taper. Very easy.
Works the same as a gear puller but doesn't mar the fly wheel and is cheaper.

Ron

vcutajar · « **Reply #30 on:** July 07, 2013, 05:06:07 AM »

Good idea. Thanks.

Vince

metalmad · « **Reply #31 on:** July 23, 2013, 11:45:51 AM »

Hay Ron
That looking great, The Mastiff is on my short list as well so I'll be following along

Pete

Don1966 · « **Reply #32 on:** July 23, 2013, 01:39:44 PM »

Hi Ron, just catching up on your build myself. She's looking great even thought you have a gear issue. Still following you bud.

Don

ozzie46 · « **Reply #33 on:** July 23, 2013, 01:53:43 PM »

Thanks Don.

I got the gears made but have had to remake all the valve cages and valves. Now I, trying to make the oil pump. As the oil pump gears are 10 tooth they are undercut and I don't think a homemade single point form tool will cut the gears right. They are .375 dia and .3125 thick 32 DP. I have some 15 tooth plastic/nylon gears about the right size but don't know if they will create the proper pressure.
So I am experimenting by making a pump out of aluminum to see if the plastic gears will work.

Ron

ozzie46 · « **Reply #34 on:** August 10, 2013, 11:06:09 PM »

Well, The plastic gears didn't work.

Ordered some 12 tooth pinoin wire from McMaster Carr as they didn't have any 2 DP 10 tooth I got 12 tooth which comes out to 7/16th outside dia and .375 PD.

Dave (steamer) suggested increasing the size if the gears to make up for the extra teeth so I increased the depth of the gears from .3125 to .375.

I not happy with the flow rate but it does have quite a bit of pressure to it as I put my finger over the output port and it took quite a bit of pressure to stop the flow. I'm not sure I ever really stopped it completely. I think it will work ok.

I fabricated the pump body with some bronze and brass Took these and made valve body.

After I squared up the gaer part of the body I drilled it side ways 3/16th and put a 3/16th piece of brass through it fro the suction and exit ports. I turned a piece of 1/2 in brass to 7/16 for the shaft bearing and silver soldered it all together. I made 4 pump bodies before I got a good one. Kept making silly mistakes. Heres a ad one but shows how the pieces were made.

These care the gear parts and the pinion wire.

And the completed pump.

Thanks for looking In.

Ron

steamer · « **Reply #35 on:** August 10, 2013, 11:16:59 PM »

Actually, if you up the number of teeth...the width should go down proportionally...so the with should be 10/12 x the initial print width.

Please check my response....

The extra volume won't hurt you..and if you have good pressure...that's all good.

Dave

Don1966 · « **Reply #36 on:** August 10, 2013, 11:28:26 PM »

Looks good to me Ron, cute little pump.

Don

ozzie46 · « **Reply #37 on:** August 10, 2013, 11:48:28 PM »

Quote from: steamer on August 10, 2013, 11:16:59 PM

Actually, if you up the number of teeth...the width should go down proportionally...so the with should be 10/12 x the initial print width.

Please check my response....

The extra volume won't hurt you..and if you have good pressure...that's all good.

Dave

Ooops Sorry I misunderstood you.

Works out .260. !0/12=.833333 x .3125=.260417 or so.

Ron

ozzie46 · « **Reply #38 on:** August 10, 2013, 11:49:44 PM »

Thanks Don. Yeah it is kinda cute isn't it.

Ron

steamer · « **Reply #39 on:** August 11, 2013, 12:28:39 AM »

Just keep going Ron. Extra oil will probably not hurt you...and it depends on how tight the oil pump was in the first place.

Dave

News:

Author Topic: Rons' Mastiff (Read 17929 times)