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A little diversion Rick??
6 hours?!!! Augh!That might scare off some beginners.First time I built an engine it took me that long to convince myself I had the stock in the chuck right. Nah. That'll show the beginners how easy it can be.Nice job Rick.
6hrs to drink coffee and ponder the meaning of life.That's how things go in my workshop as well.Anyway, a good post. thanks
Here is the type of valve being used. Still don't know what to call it. Anyone know??
Rick,Do you think this is too short coupled to include a double acting cylinder? Maybe remake the base to extend the coupling and then add a whole bunch of double acting valves too.Alan
Rick,Looking at your design got me thinking about a progressive engine: one that starts out simply and switches in more difficult or complicated pieces as the hobbiest develops skills.To go from where it is to a double-acting engine it would need a gland plate as well as a guide. The two together would hold the packing in place. Maybe make the gland as a flat plate and flange the guide, then bolt through both of them. Then single acting with an articulated connecting rod would just omit the gland. Gives still another mode to assemble it in.By using the separate valve block like you do, the engine avoids the problems a beginner can have when a part needs a lot of machining steps before it's done. No drill, bore, face, drill steam ports, drill bolt circle, on and on, and one mistake loses it all. If you want a perfect beginner engine I think this is it. Alan
What next? flyball governor? Hit/miss version?
I was doing a little searching on twin cylinder marine engines (that's right - I haven't made up my mind)...Came across John's Paddleduck which led me to www.machinistblog.com where John's plans are available.The site also has your EZ Build Engine.Also on that site is hit-n-miss engine made from barstock material and a link to get free plans.
Rick,One thing I found hard to do with my first tries at engines was to bore a flat-bottomed hole. Why not take the simplification one step further: Make the cylinder a through bore and put a plate on the right end like the new one for the left end (only without a hole for the piston rod of course.)Alan
BUT... The more I think about it, the more I'm bothered by using the model linkage for the bellcrank version. There must be some simple way of fabricating this linkage and allowing for the two degrees of freedom at the bell crank end. And a beginner certainly needs to learn to thread a rod as well as threading a clevis. Alan