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One thing to ask already is, if I do use studs, how do people go about it? I thought 3/32 rod would be about the right size for 8ba - but I would need to open up the clearance holes a bit. If I used 3/32 rod, would I cut the threads straight onto the end or would it need turning down by 7 thou on each end prior to threading?Or, for this, seeing as there will only be about 14 studs, could I simply buy 8ba studding - I know it's not as good etc but for this it would give the desired effect?Thanks,Nick
It looks smart that Stew, I was tempted to do a mill engine, still like the simplicity of them but keep adding projects to my list How does the piston valve exhaust? Out of each end of the valve bore?It exhaust at each end, all you need for the ports is to be able to drill resonably accurateHave you started a post yet? I'll be watching out for it I wont be posting for some time I'm intent on getting my loco on the rails, I also intend to draw up a vertical and a grasshopper all using the same common cylinder and hopfully being capable of being made only using a lathe and a drillI have a mental picture of how it will look, as you say eccentric up to a rocker shaft with bell cranks, rods and cross arm. It's just how I will do the links - currently thinking a fork on the end of the eccentric rod then an arm coming off the rocking shaft and two forks between the bearings on that shaft, up to the valve cross arm.I think I want to do it out of 1/16" and 3/32" rod with little brass bearing bits loctited to the ends, or should I mill them from solid or could they even just be little strips of flat 1/16" thick with holes drilled in them? Think round rods will look better - milled ones in a size I could manage may look to chunky to go with the rest of the engine.Round rods with couplings is the easyest way to goAttached is PDF version so people can zoom in/ twirl it around etc.Stew