Author Topic: Arnold's take on the MEM Corliss  (Read 169935 times)

fcheslop

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Re: Arnold's take on the MEM Corliss
« Reply #75 on: February 26, 2013, 05:47:58 PM »
No comment I don't have the whit or the wisdom

Offline arnoldb

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Re: Arnold's take on the MEM Corliss
« Reply #76 on: March 03, 2013, 12:01:45 AM »
Thanks Frazer  :ThumbsUp: - Yes, Tipex also works; I've used that with silver soldering.  But I tend to get that all over the show  :facepalm2: .  For silver solder I now use a soft ("B" or "2B") pencil and just colour in a ring around the bits; works a treat.  I must actually try it with soft solder as well...

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Arnold...I know you know I'm just having a poke at you.
I know  ;D - Here's one right back Carl; you asked for it - in many more ways than one  :stickpoke: :)

Quote
I'm curious.  Just what symptoms would characterize the dreaded Marv-itis.  Perhaps a sudden outburst of optimism* or good will?  (Believe me, if you think I'm bad now, wait until you see me cheery.)
  Hmmm... Tel got close; but judging from his current non-Ausie style head-wear he might have too many Phi's buzzing around...  To the sound of coconuts clapping, I'd say it's the ability to differentiate between European and African swallows, but then again, it might be a peculiar form of cheer around Christmas time  ;)

Bob and Jerry, thanks for those  :praise2: .  The Mery actually looks like it's a steam engine that's been converted to run as a gas engine (I'm assuming gasoline/petrol rather than natural gas) - but from the period, that fits the looks.  The double-acting Diesels are just mind-boggling; the 14 cylinder must have enough torque to winch the Moon in!  Come to think of it, the only way to make any type of double-acting engine work, one would need a cross-head...

Thanks Bill - we seem to have the same problems :facepalm2: - though I did manage to get some material this week.

Friday I managed to nip off to one of the local metal suppliers.  It wasn't quite the right day to pitch there; they were doing their financial year-end, and that's a high-stress scenario.  It's a "Local German"-run company, and anybody having anything to do with them initially might be a bit taken aback - even on a good day.  To quote James Herriot : "They're not ower cheerful Guv".  Wannabe model engineers tend to be treated as nuisances, but I've been carefully cultivating a relationship with this company; Give a cheerful greeting, try and be to the point, buy something, and don't haggle too much.  And bring along finished engines and show them what I've been doing with the bits of metal I buy from them.  They do tend to give me a lukewarm welcome nowadays ("Hello Mr. Bosch - what do you want?" from their point of view is cheerful and open-arms welcoming - I just wish they'd call me Arnold though), but on Friday the greeting was just "Look for what you need - you know where it is"... 
I was looking for a bit of steel rod to make the cylinder heads from, and also looking around for something to make the flywheel from.  A 55mm bar-end section 200mm EN8 long caught my eye for the cylinder heads - that would leave me with a good bit of stock left for other projects as well.  There were no suitable large bits of steel for the flywheel, but then a section of cast iron hollow bar caught my eye.  180mm OD x 150mm ID and 100mm long.  So with the two bits of metal in hand, back to their office.  The cashier totaled things up - N$ 476.25, and OOPS... it was quite a bit more money than I had on me.  They don't have card facilities...  So she asked me how much I had, and I emptied my wallet right there on the counter.  N$ 370 in notes, and just over N$ 10 in coins.  I think emptying my purse on the counter really amused her, because she actually cracked a smile.  She fiddled with the computer and discounts and printed me an invoice, and I came home with these:


I had quite a bit of time in the shop this afternoon, but there's not much to show for it.
I set up the steam/exhaust covers op on the lathe and skimmed one side of each down to get it flat and rid of mill scale.  There was not much to chuck up on - but it was enough to get the job done.  I also drilled a 2.5mm hole through the center (marked earlier on the mill while drilling the holes) of each workpiece at this point:


To finish the covers to thickness, I used a bit of thick cardboard between the 4-jaw chuck's jaws and the workpieces and the tailstock center to push them tight against the chuck jaws.  For the exhaust cover I just turned it down to leave a 7mm boss, as I don't intend to add much plumbing on the exhaust side:

With friction drive like this, light cuts (I do 5 thou / 0.1mm) at a time and a very sharp toolbit is needed. 

For the steam side cover, I left a bigger boss.  You might notice that the workpiece slipped a bit relative to the chuck jaws; that happened when I was machining on the boss rim and the cut got a bit heavy.  When things started slipping, I just backed off a bit, and fed back in more gently to finish off:


One luxury about normally being the only person going in my shop is that I know I can leave my machines in a "known state".  The mill and vise back-stop was still set up from last week's machining, as was the DRO, so it was a quick job to set up the steam cover again and drill out he center hole and add the flange bolt-holes which I forgot to do last weekend:


The rest of my shop session today wasn't picture-worthy, but it was good  :) .  Besides the stock I bought, I also bought a new set of M2 taps, and for the rest of the shop session, I applied those, as well as the M3 taps.  I finished tapping all the holes in the cylinder block with no drama, but it took quite a while.  It's nice when one can start mock-screwing bits together; there are studs and nuts needed though:

I'm quite disgusted with myself  :rant: .  When I drilled the holes in the cross-head flange, I was a bit off for some reason :-[ - the bolt pattern is a bit tight, so I'll have to use some judicious filing in the holes on the flange to make things match more smoothly.

That bit of cast-iron will tax my machines to the limit...  It actually fits over my 4 jaw chuck, and there might just about be enough room over the lathe-bed to machine it:

I need to cut a slice off it... After checking, that may just be possible on my "too small"' band saw.  Things might get interesting soon.  I'm promising nowt though.

Kind regards, Arnold

Kind regards, Arnold
Building an engine takes Patience, Planning, Preparation and Machining.
Procrastination is nearly the same, but it precludes machining.
Thus, an engine will only be built once the procrastination stops and the machining begins!

Offline tel

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Re: Arnold's take on the MEM Corliss
« Reply #77 on: March 03, 2013, 12:58:59 AM »
A thin disk in the angle grinder would be my choice of weapon for taking that slice Arnold. I ran into the same thing with the flywheel for the Ridley some time back works out ok if you think ahead a bit.

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Offline sbwhart

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Re: Arnold's take on the MEM Corliss
« Reply #78 on: March 03, 2013, 04:31:51 AM »
Comming along well Arnold  :ThumbsUp:

Wathcing with interest to see what you do with that chunk of tube  :hammerbash:   :)

Stew
A little bit of clearance never got in the way

Offline vcutajar

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Re: Arnold's take on the MEM Corliss
« Reply #79 on: March 03, 2013, 06:47:16 AM »
Hi Arnold

Always interesting to see what you've been up to during the week.  So it looks like you will be fabricating the flywheel.  Looking forward to see that when you get to it.

Vince

Offline Jo

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Re: Arnold's take on the MEM Corliss
« Reply #80 on: March 03, 2013, 07:10:15 AM »
Arnold: I looks like you need a bigger lathe. I justified my Colchester Master to my ex because of needing to do the 12" R&B flywheels  8)

Jo
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Offline Jasonb

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Re: Arnold's take on the MEM Corliss
« Reply #81 on: March 03, 2013, 08:07:58 AM »
Arnold before you rush to cut a slice of that pipe, think about doing all the turning as you have it now then cut off and just face the other side. It will mean you can get at the face, inside and outside all without the chuck jaws getting in the way.

Offline swilliams

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Re: Arnold's take on the MEM Corliss
« Reply #82 on: March 03, 2013, 08:57:56 AM »
That's a good story about the metal place Arnold. I was thinking that it sounded really expensive until I checked out the exchange rates. I think your German supplier is better priced than our one. Looking forward to seeing how you attack this bit of oversized cast iron.

Steve

Offline steamer

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Re: Arnold's take on the MEM Corliss
« Reply #83 on: March 03, 2013, 11:26:36 AM »
Gotta agree with Jason...if you can pull it off.

Can you get a collet in as well as the 4 jaw?  You could mount up an arbor with a catshead at the far end ...a inch inboard of the end of the tube.

A catshead...yes it's called that....and no I didn't name it...is a block of steel mounted to a mandrel.  The block usually has 4 sides with a threaded bolt stuck in.   The hex heads of the bolt bear on the inside of the tubing perpendicular to the axis of the arbor and the arbors rotation.

By adjusting the bolts that bear on the part like an inverted 4 jaw chuck.....you can get the outboard end of the tubing to run true and be supported by the catshead and the tailstock center.

Mounted an inch in from the end of the tubing...you should have plenty of support to turn just as Jason has described.
The collet can drive the arbor, while the Headstock side of the part is driven by the 4 jaw chuck,

Dave

.....PS:....or find a buddy with a bigger lathe..... 8)

...PPS:   .....and no I haven't a clue how it got the name...but I'm sure it was an alcohol related incident.

Dave
« Last Edit: March 03, 2013, 11:31:36 AM by steamer »
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Offline Captain Jerry

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Re: Arnold's take on the MEM Corliss
« Reply #84 on: March 03, 2013, 02:20:43 PM »
That's a good idea, Dave.  I'm going to be facing the same problem soon so it caught my attention.  I have seen the method used before but had completely forgotten it.  Your catshead is very much like the spider that Bob (Maryak)used to handle the 8" pipe for his Scotch Boiler only he did not mount it on an arbor.  He used the four bolts like chuck jaws to grab the pipe on the inner surface and then supported it with a live center in the tailstock.  Thanks for refreshing this in my mind.  here is a link to Bob,s post on HMEM.

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f42/8-steel-scotch-boiler-16609/index3.html

Jerry
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Offline mklotz

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Re: Arnold's take on the MEM Corliss
« Reply #85 on: March 03, 2013, 04:45:47 PM »
You may find it easier to center the work on the cat's head if you use carriage bolts rather than hex head.  At least I did.

I think the name comes from the fact that the block with projecting bolts reminded some visually challenged soul of the whiskers projecting from a cat's muzzle.
Regards, Marv
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Offline steamer

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Re: Arnold's take on the MEM Corliss
« Reply #86 on: March 03, 2013, 04:57:27 PM »
Probably Marv....

Dave
"Mister M'Andrew, don't you think steam spoils romance at sea?"
Damned ijjit!

Offline Jo

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Re: Arnold's take on the MEM Corliss
« Reply #87 on: March 03, 2013, 05:07:15 PM »
Arnold,

The other way of doing it is to use your face plate and make four or six simple blocks that will enable you to put the tail of a bolt out at 90 degrees and tighten on to the inner face from the inside. Ideally with a suitable packer that will increase the clamping area on the inside of the tube and hence the stability of the mount. :ThumbsUp:.

I keep meaning to make a set of these for each of my various mills  :-\

Jo
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Offline Captain Jerry

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Re: Arnold's take on the MEM Corliss
« Reply #88 on: March 03, 2013, 05:13:45 PM »
Good point, Marv.  The round head on a carriage bolt would make fine adjustment easier, or you could dome the head of hex bolts with a file.  I would also want to use a fine thread if possible and include a jam nut to prevent creep. 

Jerry
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There are things that you can do and some things you can't do. Don't worry about it. try it anyway.

Offline Jasonb

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Re: Arnold's take on the MEM Corliss
« Reply #89 on: March 03, 2013, 05:23:42 PM »
I don't know if extra suppot is really needed. The bit of tube is only 100mm (4") long and you are likely to be able to get it slid back over the 6" chuck meaning the full length of the reversed jaws will be in contact with the bore, jaws are likely to be 1.5" long so that only leaves 2.5" projecting from the chuck, hardly a massive overhang.

J

 

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