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Ball turners will not help here, you have not got the clearance between the flanges. What you need is a profiling tool. A simple piece of gauge plate (or any bit of steel that you can later harden) drill a hole in it, shape up around the hole to suit your valve and harden, will work well
Threads: 40 TPI is normally chosen when you have an application where things have to line up.
Looking again at the photo's I have just realized the problem you have with the spindle: you have made the end separate to the spindle. It is normally all turned from one piece. Yes go and silver solder it on. Careful with the flux stainless is a little different to SS and demands a higher temperature to take which is why they do a higher temperature flux (Tenacity) specifically for that job.
By sheer coincidence, I did a 180? flanged one last week - it's a bit bigger scale tho, 1" 'globe' and 8BA screws in the flanges. For your size you would need to go down to 12 BA perhaps, to get it looking right.I'll try and get a pic tomorrow if I finish spraying early enough.
Nice valve Simon. Excellent post too. I have a project in mind and found this very useful.Re clamping the rotary table. When I did the hub for my spinning wheel the other day, it was the first time I'd used the RT in vertical mode. The whole thing flexed when I took a plunge cut. I added a long clamp to the top (side) of the RT down to the table to fix it. Don't know if this is the same issue you had or if this helps. (I should have pointed that out in my thread.)
And here is the valve - not finished yet, as you can see!
I keep meaning to make up a set of small diameter profiling tools. One day .
I like the one on the right!....13th photo down....
One question is the oil hardening ground steel plate also known as guage plate?
I'm not picturing how the carbon rods are used. Do you mill a pocket in the rod to keep the parts being soldered aligned? Or make a "spindle" from carbon for the same reason? Does the carbon burn away on soldering, or just survive the heat?
Very nice work Simon, as Tel says it really looks the part.
You won't be the first to be caught out trying to heat treat 'precision ground mild steel'
What timing! I woke up this morning and while thinking about what to do today I decided I would make a valve and pipe and mount my Stuart #4 to a show base. I have been working on finishing the reverse gear for a while now. I built the engine years ago, then found the reverse kit at some show.
That might be exactly what I did. Need to keep my stock better labeled! Now, of course, the inevitable question is how can I distinguish between O1 and mild steel rod? A spark test?Simon
I know this thread is a bit old, but I am reviving it because I have a question I would like to ask.In my search for a simple valve to make for my current project I came across a diagram that Tel posted on page two of this thread.In this diagram which I am reattaching, which is the inlet and which is the outlet?Vince
I know this thread is a bit old, but I am reviving it because I have a question I would like to ask.In my search for a simple valve to make for my current project I came across a diagram that Tel posted on page two of this thread.In this diagram which I am reattaching, which is the inlet and which is the outlet?