Coles C-611

[Jo]

No I have just manually gone through and replaced all the addresses  Lets hope Ade has an automatic way of doing that.

Jo

[crueby]

The Lister website is still not showing up for posting new images either. What did you have to change in the addresses? Did the path to the server change?

[Jo]

Follow the link https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/index.php  ​and it will get you to the log-in page as normal.


The only change to the links to the photos  I have made is to add the  dash between Lister and engine just like the link above. But I am hoping this can be done automatically as my eyes were going trying to find all the links in my posts.

Jo

[crueby]

Ah - that did it. I hope he can work some magic and make those changes globally, there are a lot of threads with pictures there. I had to do a similar thing several years ago when PostImage changed their base address, it was a nightmare to change every link in every thread I had.

[Kim]

Interesting.... starting sometime in march all my photo links started using the lister-engine URL (with the hyphen).  But before that they use the listerengine version (no hyphen) and consequently, now they don't work.

Yes, hopefully Ade has a way to do a bulk search & replace.  I've already gone through and changed all my photo links once when we had that Photobucket issue a few years ago.  I'd prefer not to do it again. It is a fairly time-intensive process...

Kim

[ettingtonliam]

I don't know about anyone else  but I cannot see any of my photos in this thread any longer  Could someone confirm if they can still see them?


I had some good news today and some not good news. The good news is Polly Wobbles have received Surus' new casting set back from the Foundry 2 months earlier than expected, delivery due next week  . The not so good news is that the happy trumpeting sound has turned into complaints that his spare casting boxes are the wrong size    this start just after the arrival of some suspiciously brown looking boxes. I hope to be allowed to find out what he has later and if I am lucky be able to post some photos of it 

Yes, I can still see your photos, the last ones being the crankshaft and balance weights where you showed them fouling the engine bed casting.
Jo

[Jo]

Still no response from Ade  If you copy/paste the address from coppermine be careful as it still shows the old "Listerengine" URL address 

Time to update this thread now that I can post pics again:

The Steam Chest cover has been held by the spigot to have the back faced:



Then drilled and tapped for the steam pipe connector.

I started making the cladding by using postits to make a template:



The cladding is 0.5mm thick and I have milled the thickness of the cylinder down so the steam chest casting is 0.5mm proud on either side:




A suitable piece of aluminium was then cut out using a sharp strong knife blade and fatigued to get it to break off. Taken to just about the right width and bent to match the cylinder profile, then clamped on to see where the cladding screws should go:



Drilling for the cladding is always fraught and needs clamps everywhere:



Once the screws are in place on either side then the final shaping can be done with a pair of bars to pull the cladding up tight:



Now it is on, the two faces can be taken smooth with the casting by rubbing it on some emery paper:




Have you spotted the obvious Flaw in the cylinder     

Jo

[Jasonb]

Looking good apart from the fact the steam may have a job getting out of the cylinder if that is the flaw you mention but could be all photos taken to show top edge of cylinder.

[Jo]

Yes I have forgotten to mill the ways from the steam ports to the end of the cylinder. In disgust I started by looking at making a land for the bolt heads that secure the cylinder to the Soleplate. The threaded hole being 3.1mm clearance (3.6mm tapped) it was not a good idea to use a reverse cutter and it was too deep to machine a circular shaped land so I machined it with the Dremel:



Then I remembered I also had not drilled and tapped for the exhaust 





I couldn't put it off any longer... Time to do the steam ways 

The drawing shows a beautiful shapely hole that follows the line of the bore and breaks into the side of the steam ports - all well and good on full sized cylinders which have relatively thin walls but there is plenty of material on (most) model cylinders to drill the ports as a straight line. On the side of the cylinder you can see I have marked the end of the steam ports.

We align the casting in the vice using a drill between those and slightly inside the edge of the bore.  Then we need a flat so that we have something to drill against:




Now we can drill the holes - I am drilling three holes 3.1mm diameter, it was probably only 2.4mm originally but if it is too big it won't matter:




(I also milled a step so that where the original angled face actually meets the cylinder it allows for better flow and there is less of a constriction - missing photo)

Where was I  I remember fitting that cladding. The cladding currently does not have a hole for the exhaust. Now that the exhaust is drilled I can refit the cladding and use a hammer to tap over the exhaust hole to leave an imprint of where it needs to go on the inside of the cladding:




Initially drilled on the pillar drill and using that tapered reamer alongside the cylinder to take out the hole to the correct size (and if necessary adjust its position) the brass exhaust pipe can be fitted:




The Flywheel still needs its grub screw. That is easily done by drilling and tapping a hole for it:



there may be sufficient space for a brass pellet under the grub screw so that it doesn't score the crankshaft:



There is not much left to do:



That list of jobs to do is getting shorter and shorter. I feel the need to negotiate another set of castings 

Jo

[Jasonb]

You left "brown stuff to stand it on" off the bottom of the list

Are you both ready for a long fondling session tonight with all those new castings and parts

[Jo]

You left "brown stuff to stand it on" off the bottom of the list

What can I say  except it runs. His lordship is still being protective of the castings. I tried convincing him with a quick video of this engine running and that just brought about reminding him about other things I have not yet completed

I need to get to the Polly wobbles parcel before him next week  I am not planning on going anywhere... I wonder if it is possible to get there first 

Jo

[Jasonb]

Just have a box of Snickers ready to drop on the doormat and he will think it's those that have arrived.

Will be interesting to see if the water/laser cut parts are to size and hopefully not like the William Armstrong ones

[Jo]

Ade has just got back to me on the photo hosting: All of our photos are still there  . The domain name funding was someone else's responsibility and it looks like it was not done.

He hopes to look into it this weekend and will get back to us on a solution 

Jo

[Jo]

Back to finishing off this engine:

The steam chest cover needed to be taken down to fit the Steam chest. On this engine the sides taper so I need to shape it up using a file. Picking up my file I saw this:



Yes I have been using this file on aluminium and it has Aluminium pins all over it. These have to be removed or they will score the piece that is being filed. I used a scalpel run down the grooves to get them out. Now to do a bit of filing:



Have a look at the fit:



That will do 

Before stripping down for Tarring and Feathering I decided to try running the engine. I have not packed the glands but I have used some graphited Teflon yarn in the grooves as packing:



As usual I wrapped it the wrong way round the piston  but it didn't stop it running:


<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ypPbUsjS50" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ypPbUsjS50</a>

I then pulled it apart for painting. Why is it that you buy a couple of reels of masking tape and within a couple of years the sticky has forgotten how to stick  what a waste of money  I had to resort to using parcel tape for masking with the knowledge it was going to leave a sticky mess behind when it was taken off....

Painting:  I  started the tarring process using some etch primer and 24 hours later rattle can spray not with racing boy red or Stuart Green nor for that matter that not very blue Duck Egg blue 



Its a light colour just like I did the C-612 in. A very nice man left me with two cans of this light Tan colour and it was the first colour that came to hand. As per the photo of the original C-611 you can see I have left the main bearings unpainted - I don't like it like this, just like I don't like having bolts on the big end or bolts holding the cylinder to the soleplate but they match the original design and this is a rare engine so 

Jo

[Vixen]

Well done, another runner 

A coat of paint makes all the difference.

BTW, have you tried rubbing a stick of blackboard chalk over the file before you start to file aluminium. It helps prevent the dreaded pinning.

What's next?

Mike